THE DIARY OF SAM J - SATURDAY 3 MARCH 2001

We started walking at 9.20 am from Upnor, wrapped up well against the cold – we’d seen lots of snow on the ground on the way here.  We knew that a lot of paths would be closed because of the foot and mouth outbreak and that we wouldn’t be able to go further than Gillingham this weekend.

We had to go onto the beach to get a view of Upnor Castle, but we should get a better view from the other bank.  We walked from Upnor to Frindsbury along the road past an oast house and a picturesque graveyard in the snow.  Frindsbury was where we had our first view of Rochester – the cathedral and castle stood out from the industrial and residential areas.

It was downhill all the way into Strood and then we crossed the river.  After a photo call to take pictures of the decorations on the bridge and of each other, we reached the town.  It was only eleven o’clock!

We had a look in a second hand bookshop and came out with a bag full of books each.  We decided that, as we only had a few more miles to go, we would sightsee for the rest of the day as everything would be open and we would continue with our walking tomorrow.  So, at 11.30 am, we were sitting in the cathedral tea rooms with cake and hot chocolate, planning the rest of our day.

There are lots of book shops in Rochester and we went in all of them.  We bought so much that we wouldn’t have been able to walk any further anyway. We had a look around the cathedral – very pretty apart from the four very scary Green Men on the ceiling.

We got a cab back to Upnor and the car before returning to Rochester for a pizza.  Afterwards we bought provisions (chocolate!) and headed for Medway Youth Hostel.  After dumping all our bags in our room, we headed for the TV lounge – no fighting over what to watch as there was only one other person staying!  We played scrabble, watched telly and went to bed.

SUNDAY 4 MARCH 2001

We were up at 8.00 am for breakfast this morning, which was when we met the other guest and it turned out that Susan knew of her son!

We left the hostel just as it was starting to rain to drive to Rochester and we were walking again at 9.20 am.  It’s been mostly road walking today apart from a bit of the path that ran along the river bank at Chatham.  It was very peaceful and we must have been nearer the sea, because we saw two oyster catchers!

We arrived at Chatham dockyard, but there wasn’t much to see because all the interesting bits were in the museum.

We were trying to get to the river bank again so that we could get a view of Upnor Castle. We could see it from afar and we saw people walking along the path, but we could only see a building site and new housing development.  Eventually, we found an information board that showed the path around.

It had been raining on and off all morning and, when we got to the bank opposite Upnor Castle, we even had a few flakes of snow!  We took a few photos and then set off to Gillingham.  Very grim walking – heavy rain, roads and the fact that this was going to be the last bit of walking that Susan could do for a while.

We arrived at Gillingham station at 12.30 pm to get the train back to Rochester.  The plan was to drive back to Upnor for lunch, but, by the time we got there, the pub was full, so we drove back to Epsom to meet Paul and had lunch at Bella Pasta.

It’s sad to think that, because of the foot and mouth, Susan won’t be doing any walking for a while.  But let’s hope that it will all be over soon. 

Day 37 – Saturday 3 and Sunday 4 March 2001 - Upnor to Gillingham

8.5 miles walked today

463.5 miles walked in total (average 12.52)

On Saturday, I left Portsmouth just before seven o’clock to pick Sam up from Epsom and we were in Upnor at nine twenty, ready to start walking.

I’ve been a bit nervous about walking this weekend, due to the foot and mouth breakout.  We knew that we’d have only a few miles to walk – there is a total footpath ban in Kent – and Gillingham was the last place we could reach before we would be back in farmland.  But we’d already worked out that we would be doing plenty of sightseeing and mooching instead.

From Upnor, we were on roads to Frindsbury – we could see the church we had to head for on top of the hill, but, unfortunately, we had to cross a dual carriageway to get there.  Which meant a quick dash across one side, leaping over the barrier in the middle of the road, and then another sprint to the other side.

It wasn’t long before we’d got to the Rochester bridge, which was decked out with lots of stone lions, and had a magnificent view of the cathedral and castle.  There’s been a bridge on this site since Roman times and it has quite a history of being burnt down, knocked down and generally falling down.

As soon as we got into Rochester High Street, we popped into the first second hand bookshop we found.  Unfortunately, we bought so many books that we realised we’d never be able to walk any further with all this extra weight to carry.  A quick decision was made – we’d sightsee today and walk tomorrow.  And with that, we popped into the cathedral tea rooms for a cuppa!

The rest of the day was spent in the cathedral, looking around the shops, wandering up and down the high street, laughing at all the shop names – Mrs Bumble’s tea rooms, Peggoty’s tea rooms, Fagin’s café, etc.   We didn’t pop into the Dickens centre, but we did go and have a look at his house and the chalet/ summer house he used to write in.

After getting a taxi back to the car (we couldn’t even be bothered to walk the two miles back to collect it!) we dashed back into Rochester for a pizza before heading off to the youth hostel, a converted oast house in the middle of Capstone Country Park.  As we drove into the park, we could see all the red and white tape up closing all the footpaths and bridleways.

The youth hostel was hardly what could be called over subscribed – in fact, there were only four of us in the place, so the warden gave us a four bedded room instead of the usual two.  Marvellous – even more room to make more mess!  It wasn’t long before the contents of the rucksacks were spread out over the floor and we could look at our literary purchases.

We had purchased some emergency provisions – in the form of three bars of chocolate each and some hot chocolate sachets – so we dashed down to the lounge with our goodies to take possession of the TV remote control.  We discovered someone else already in there – blinking cheek!  We did the obligatory exploring of the bookcases and games and decided on a game of scrabble, which threw up such gems as “suffix”, “svelte” and “zephyr”!  I won’t reveal the scores as I don’t want Sam to feel inadequate.

On Sunday morning, we had breakfast with the mother of one of our agency engineers in Portsmouth, whose wages I’d been (indirectly) responsible for paying during the past year!  Spooky!

The walking was very peaceful around the docks and we spotted oyster catchers, seagulls, swans and ducks, all grubbing around in the mud for food.  Unfortunately, the sun decided it wasn’t coming out today and it was very grey.  We made our way down to St Mary’s Island past Chatham docks and (eventually!) found the path around the edge of the island which would give us a view straight across to Upnor Castle.  It decided, at this point, to snow.  As it was so cold, we didn’t linger very long to check the history out – apparently the Dutch invaded in 1667 and destroyed ships in the Medway, after attacking Sheerness on Sheppey.  Then they turned round and went home, without proceeding further upriver.  I’m not entirely sure why – we would have been a sitting duck.  Perhaps we made it too easy for them and we weren’t enough of a challenge.

It didn’t take us very long at all to get to Gillingham through the shopping centre and to the rail station, to get the train back to Rochester.  Unluckily for us, the pub that we’d earmarked for lunch was full, so it was a quick dash back to Epsom to meet Paul in Bella Pasta for dinner.

A very good weekend – not very much walking, but lots of laughing, shopping and eating chocolate.  All my very favourite things!

Day 36 – Sunday 18 February 2001 - Allhallows to Upnor

10 miles walked today

455 miles walked in total (average 12.63)

I had a lay in at Sheila and Alan’s this morning until quarter to nine – lovely.  Consequently, I didn’t start until ten thirty.  The weather has been very mild, starting out quite overcast but quickly becoming glorious.  I’ve seen lots of walkers out today with their packs and walking sticks.

Grain village is very small and seems to have a huge population of young kids, all of whom were playing out in the street.  Because it’s very flat, you get the full benefit of seeing the four power stations on this stretch of coast.  Not a view I’d like from my living room window.  Still, each to their own.

Because of the flooding, it’s been all roads again and, unfortunately, the road I was walking on was the one I’d driven in on.  Things started to look up at Stoke, however, as I started to use the side roads through the villages.  It was very peaceful, despite the gun fire from the ranges and there were some brilliant views over to Sheppey.

Hoo was very pretty and was full of horses.  I also spotted a mad magpie who was leaping from one horse’s back to another, unfortunately never sitting still long enough for a photo opportunity.  (I was on a mission today to practise with my new camera and its huge zoom!)

Upnor was very pretty – with lots of boats about and lots of people visiting the pubs for Sunday lunch.  I stopped at Upnor Castle and sat and ate my packed lunch while overlooking the River Medway.  It was surprisingly calm, considering the industry over the other side, the silence being broken only by seagulls and the chug-chug of a boat making its way, very slowly, up river.

I got chatting to a couple who said pedestrians could cross at the first bridge over the Medway.  What a relief!  They also told me to eat at the Rochester Cathedral restaurant – good food at bargain prices apparently!

Sam had forbidden me from visiting the castle as she wanted to have a look at it when she comes with me in a fortnight.  Well, Sam, you’re going to be disappointed – it doesn’t open until April Fools Day!

Day 35 – Saturday 17 February 2001 - Gravesend to Allhallows

15 miles walked today

445 miles walked in total (average 12.71)

Having seriously overslept by an hour, I had a later start than anticipated today.  Nine o’clock found me in the Tourist Information Centre in Gravesend, acquiring telephone numbers of taxi firms who could pick me up at the end of the day.  The train service on the Isle of Grain doesn’t go to any place I need to walk to!

From Gravesend, the path followed the canal and the railway line through yet another industrial estate.  A train passed me with just three freight carriages and the driver beeped and waved at me!

I wanted to go out to the shore and see Shornmead Fort, but, unfortunately, the path was knee deep in cowshit, so I changed tack and decided to get out to the Thames a bit further on.

The sun’s been out for most of the day, but, because of all the rain recently, the paths are very boggy and, at one point, the water had come up over my boots and had soaked my socks and feet.  I decided that, all the time I was on grass, my feet would never dry out so I had a change of plan and walked through the villages instead, passing through Church Street, West Street and Cliffe, where I popped into the Six Bells for a drink.

From Cliffe, I tried public footpaths again, but very soon had to backtrack to a road which took me first to Cooling, past the castle and church, and then steadily uphill to High Halstow.  I could see Canvey Island and Southend over the water – it’s taken me months to get this far!  I saw lots of snowdrops and also my first crocuses.  So the scenery hasn’t been all bad!

The road pounding was having a serious impact on my knees and hips and every step was becoming quite difficult.  Nevertheless, I pushed on through High Halstow, Fenn Street and St Mary Hoo before finishing at Allhallows.

I tried to get a taxi from the Rose and Crown, which I’d already ascertained to be a workers’ pub, from the proliferation of yellow site coats in the cars in the car park.  Unfortunately, the taxis wouldn’t come out of Gravesend as it wasn’t in their area.  I nipped into the pub to get a local taxi number – what a nightmare!  Dim lighting, Christmas flashing lights all over the place, a barmaid with the blondest hair and biggest chest I’ve ever seen and thirty or forty workmen.  And no women.  Needless to say, everyone turned round to look at me, so I got the number and scarpered.  It was four o’clock at this time and getting quite chilly.  But I certainly wasn’t waiting inside the pub though!

A very good day – very pleased with the mileage covered.

THE DIARY OF SAM J - SUNDAY 4 FEBRUARY 2001

We set off in the pouring rain from Greenhithe village at 9.50 am.  It’s a very pretty place – lots of old houses with Dutch gables and a pub at each end of the high street – ideal.

We eventually found the footpath by the river which crossed Swanscombe marshes.  There was no-one around except the birds and it would have been lovely if the weather was better.  We had our packed lunch as we walked along (cheese rolls and hot cross buns – thank you Sheila!).

We had to head inland and finally found a pebbly path that led the way.  We shouldn’t have complained about that as it was far better than what we were about to encounter.  The track we joined that would take us back to the road was thick mud all the way.  We could see a couple of workmen in yellow jackets up ahead and were wondering what they would think of us being out in these conditions, when we didn’t have to be.  As we drew level, we realised that the man with the laptop computer wasn’t going to say a word, so we both yelled “hello” to him!

Back on the road, we passed Northfleet and Gravesend football ground and then another industrial estate.  This one was a little more exciting as we had to walk through the Blue Circle cement works.  It is possible that a path runs all the way through, but the signpost may have been tampered with so we took the path that skirted the edge of the site.

It was here that we had our first view of Gravesend.  Back onto the banks of the river and we had a very clear view of Grays on the other bank.  I’m not sure if that’s a good thing though.

By 12.30 pm, we had reached our destination for the day – Gravesend.  The one thing we had to find (apart from postcards!) was the statue of Pocahontas which we did easily – she’s by the Tourist Information Centre!

Everything was shut so we had a wander around to find somewhere to have lunch and discovered the first sign for the Saxon Shore Way which Susan will follow around the coast of Kent to Rye in Sussex.  The start of her next day’s walk!

Day 34 – Sunday 4 February 2001 - Greenhithe to Gravesend

7 miles walked today

430 miles walked in total (average 12.64)

This morning Sam and I were walking just before ten o’clock, but had only planned to walk as far as Gravesend, the start of the Saxon Shore Way, my first long distance footpath, covering one hundred and forty miles around the Kent coast.  It was a good thing we hadn’t planned on going any further – the weather was filthy today and it wasn’t long before we were soaked through.

The first stretch took us out along the marshes towards an industrial estate before heading back out on roads.  It was so wet that we had mud up to our knees and our boots were about three feet across in width.  As we were nearly back to roads, we walked down a track that had been churned up by machinery and had a very tricky few paces where we had to negotiate some pipework.  There were men working on the track and they didn’t turn a hair as we went past.  We were quite difficult to ignore actually – both in the bright red waterproof coats again – so we were very impressed with the diligence shown by one of the engineers and his surveying, in his show of indifference towards us.

We were only on roads for a very short while until we were back on footpaths again which, very bizarrely, went through the Blue Circle cement works.  We weren’t sure if we were supposed to walk through the depot, but there were footpath signs up and signs warning walkers and cyclists of the dangers of moving machinery and plant.

It wasn’t long now before we walked into Gravesend along the river again.  We were on a mission to find Pocahontas, the Red Indian princess that no-one had heard of until Walt Disney’s animated film brought her worldwide fame.  It wasn’t difficult to find her as there were signs up all over Gravesend.  She’d apparently saved the life of Captain John Smith, one of the early English colonists in Virginia.  She married another settler, John Rolfe, and come back to England with him in 1616.  As she set out for America a year later, she caught a fever and died, aged only twenty-two.

We’d had enough by now and made our way to the Three Daws on the riverside for lunch, soaked through and very muddy.  Another good day, despite the weather.

THE DIARY OF SHEILA S - NOT WALKING WITH SUSAN ON SATURDAY 3 FEBRUARY 2001

Susan arrived an hour late – fortunately Alan was nearly ready and only had to have a shower, breakfast, get dressed and pack a rucksack.

They set off at 9.20 am.  At last – a bit of peace!

I had a wonderful day looking round the shops and visiting my nieces, Amy and Sophie.

Susan and Alan arrived back at Coulsdon at about 6.30 pm.

We had toad in the hole, spotted dick and custard followed by wine and chocolate.

Alan couldn’t stand all the excitement of the evening and fell asleep in the chair at about nine o’clock.  Susan and I chatted until eleven, then decided to have an early night in order to be fit for another day’s walking on Sunday.

A brilliant day – I can’t wait to not walk with Susan again!

Day 33 – Saturday 3 February 2001 - Erith to Greenhithe

11 miles walked today

423 miles walked in total (average 12.81)

I left Portsmouth at 6.30 am and got to Sheila and Alan’s in Coulsdon at eight o’clock.  While I was waiting for Alan to get ready, I looked at all of Sheila’s recent photographs, had breakfast and read War and Peace from cover to cover.  We finally left the house at 9.30 am and were ready to walk in Erith at 10.15 am.

The weather was very mild and sunny, but with big black clouds following us for the whole day.

We walked for a short while along the side of the Thames, before finding ourselves – wrongly – in the middle of an industrial estate the wrong side of the River Darent.  It didn’t take long to correct this mistake and we were soon striding out in the right direction.  As soon as we crossed the Darent, we were on footpaths all the way, using the Darent Valley Path.

The path wound around on a ridge with marshes on one side and the River Darent on the other.  Halfway out to the Thames, we met a farmer who was watching over one of his cows who had fallen down the ridge and was now laying, shivering and exhausted, at the bottom.  We talked with him until his pal came round in the JCB with the bucket on, to try and get her back on to the marsh side.  He told us that the ridges were built to protect the marshes from being flooded from the Thames, but that they’d been flooded anyway in the storms of 1953.  It was then that the flood barrier was built to protect the River Darent too.

Alan, for some reason, decided to introduce us to the farmer and explained about my walk and that I’d started in Norfolk, to which the farmer, laughing, said “not this morning surely!”.

We left him and his mate to rescue the cow and walked along to the flood barrier, where we sat and ate our lunch.  Alan’s bag is a little like Mary Poppins’ and he soon produced polythene for us to sit on, binoculars to look across the Thames with and yoghurts (with spoons) to supplement the rolls I’d made.  You’d never know he was a boy scout, would you?

The paths followed the Thames all the way to Greenhithe and we were soon under the Queen Elizabeth Bridge again.  Bridges are fantastic!  A little way past the bridge, we found a white plastic garden chair in the middle of the path which provided us with plenty of photo opportunities.  Unfortunately, today was the day my camera finally gave up the ghost and died.  I’d been expecting it for about six months, so wasn’t really surprised.  Alan kindly lent me his camera from this point and said I could have the pictures he’d taken so far.  However, he also told me that he had terrible camera shake and wasn’t sure the photos would come out anyway.  Ho hum!

At Greenhithe, we walked practically straight from the footpath into the train station, with a short stretch past Asda.  We were about ready to call it a day anyway so leapt on the first train back to Erith.  Unfortunately, it didn’t stop at Erith and we ended up at Abbey Wood, with a swift run over the bridge to the other platform to get the train back again.  That will teach us for not concentrating on the train announcements!

It’s been a fantastic day – we’ve seen lots and talked lots.  Alan told me lots of stories all day – unfortunately I’m not sure he finished one story before being sidetracked into another.  Still, it’s been very educational and great fun!

(At Sheila’s later, Alan mentioned that he’d like to walk the stretch around Reculver in Kent.  I pointed out that Sam had already earmarked that walk, but that he was very welcome to come anyway.  He told Sheila, “I suppose they’ll walk ahead and I’ll have to walk behind catching at their odd snatches”.  We assume he meant conversation!)

THE DIARY OF SAM J - SATURDAY 20 JANUARY 2001

Our walk started at 9.50 am from the Millennium Dome, Greenwich.  It seems bizarre that, just a month ago, the area would have been packed with visitors.  Fantastic walking weather – sunny, but very cold, with a covering of snow.

We found our way to the Thames Path and our first proper view of the Barrier.  The water was very still and peaceful.  Very soon we reached the Barrier and we were looking forward to visiting the information centre.  Unfortunately, it doesn’t open until 5 February 2001.  The toilets were open however and they had the smallest cubicles known to man (or woman in this case).

Had a sit down outside the coffee shop (opens beginning of March!).  Paul had prepared a flask of coffee for us so we had a quick drink and we were on our way again.

There was no path by the river from here on so we made our way inland, through Charlton and Woolwich.  Very depressing area, so I’ll say no more about it.

We were back onto dual carriageways as we made towards Thamesmead.  Having seen signs for a new superstore, we decided that we would have lunch there.  After nearly an hour of walking along grass verges, through the car park of Belmarsh Prison and the central reservation of a dual carriageway, we finally made it to civilisation and Safeway.

Whilst tucking into our jacket potato with beans and cheese (Susan) and chips (me), we checked the map.  We were spurred on by the fact that, dependent on the weather, we could reach Gravesend on Sunday … that’s nearly the seaside!

Away we went, this time following the Green Chain path that ran all the way to Erith, our probable destination for the day.  Highlights included a three legged cat, children trying to kill themselves by walking across the frozen river that ran alongside the path and flats that had garden sheds on their balconies.

On a hillside just outside the estate were the ruined walls of Lesnes Abbey.  They seem to be very well looked after, although I’m sure they get a bit of stick from the local yobs from time to time.  It looked really pretty with its snow capped walls so we sat down and had another coffee.

It was starting to get cold again, so we headed off into the woods that lie on the outskirts of Erith.  We saw a fox, squirrels and various birds.  Well, I did.  Susan pretended to see them as she didn’t have her specs on.

Reached Erith station at 4.05 pm just in time for our legs to give way.  We’ll have to see what the weather is like tomorrow before we set out.  The forecast is not favourable.

SUNDAY 21 JANUARY 2001

7.30 am.  Got up.  Raining.  Went back to bed.

Day 32 – Saturday 20 January 2001 - Greenwich to Erith

10.5 miles walked today

412 miles walked in total (average 12.87)

This morning, Sam and I were walking just before ten o’clock.  It had been a bit touch and go whether we’d actually walk today – due to snow, sleet and me desperate for a lay in!  I left Portsmouth slightly later than I’d anticipated – it was so cold, I really didn’t want to drag myself out of bed!

Our first major landmark was the Dome again.  I’d been at Christmas with Shannon and Nicholas and had seen the huge queues of people, visiting before it shut on New Year’s Eve.  However, today it was deserted.  It looked very sad in the snow and frost.

We followed the river path for a little while and soon stumbled over a solar sundial.  When the dial shows twelve noon on the twenty-first of the month, it is actually eleven minutes out.  Apparently, this is normal and nothing to be concerned about!

We got very excited as we approached the Thames flood barrier – we walked through a covered tunnel which showed (in scale) locks, bridges, lighthouses and other landmarks along the one hundred and eighty mile length of the river, along with their corresponding heights above sea level.  We were eager to see the visitor centre to find out how the barrier worked, but, unfortunately, it was shut until February.  Hey ho!

From here, it was inland again on roads, pavements, HM Prison Belmarsh car park and dual carriageway central reservations to Thamesmead and lunch.  Because it was so cold in the morning, we’d worn rather a lot of layers so, by the time we got to Safeways for lunch, we were very hot and bothered.  On this basis, we sat down for an hour and lost quite a lot of walking time!

After lunch, we were back on a very well signposted footpath – the Green Chain Walk – to Erith.  It meandered vaguely through lots of housing estates until we finally got to some greenery again and stumbled across Lesnes Abbey ruins.  It looked so pretty covered in snow and frost.  We did quite a lot of swearing too about Henry VIII and his savagery of the abbeys in general.  The abbey has only been excavated since the beginning of the twentieth century and is looked after by a conservation group run by Bexley Borough Council.

The abbey is quite a way (uphill) from the river and we were surprised to note that the grounds were completely under water between 1230 and 1240, due to the disastrous flooding of the Thames.  That must have been a flood and a half!

From the abbey, the path went through a wood and we saw a fox, some squirrels and a jay. Or at least, Sam saw them and pointed them out to me and I saw them eventually when we were a bit nearer.  Perhaps I ought to start wearing my glasses.

We finally got to Erith and were very relieved to call it a day.  At four o’clock, we were beginning to lose the daylight and we were beginning to feel the cold again, despite the various layers of clothing.  Also, Sam’s knees and my feet were refusing to go any further.  It’s been a great day – not too many miles covered, but plenty to see.

  

THE DIARY OF SAM J - SUNDAY 10 DECEMBER 2000

The day didn’t get off to the greatest of starts due to engineering works at Epsom.  So, after a short bus ride, we made our way to Becontree. By the time we started walking at 10.30 am, we were an hour behind schedule.  The weather had deteriorated while we were on the train, so we started off in the pouring rain.  We considered going shopping instead, but the thought of missing out on walking through a housing estate and alongside the North Circular was too much.  It did clear up a bit, briefly, and there was just enough blue sky to make a sailor a pair of trousers, but it didn’t last long.

We passed along a particularly scary footpath that was littered with half a dozen abandoned motorbikes so we quickened our pace somewhat only to reach an industrial estate and rubbish tip!  Another shower of rain followed and another dual carriageway when we had our first view of some of the more famous landmarks on our route.

We stood in the sunshine, admiring the view of London City Airport, the Millennium Dome and Canary Wharf.  We noticed the backdrop of black clouds and decided – yes, they were heading our way.  At the Woolwich Ferry we reached the Thames for the first time, the opposite bank seemed so close you could almost swim to it.  I did suggest to Susan that she should invest in an inflatable pontoon that she could fling across any body of water that was hampering her route, but I don’t think she was impressed.  It was at this juncture that the heavens opened.  And, boy, did they open!

What people must have thought of us as we cowered beside the wall of the Tate and Lyle factory, in a torrential thunderstorm, wearing practically identical waterproof coats and carrying an Ordnance Survey map, I’d love to know.  We were hysterical by this time and wondering why we were doing such a stupid thing when we could have been in a nice cosy pub, but it was just another shower and we soon dried off in the force nine gale that followed.  That was all the rain for the day and we walked for the rest of the day in brilliant sunshine!

We were soon on the Isle of Dogs and on the home stretch.  There is a walkway along the river for most of the way here and the opportunity to have a nose in people’s windows!  Some of the apartments have spectacular views over the river to the Dome and we could see the Royal Observatory on the hill in Greenwich, our target for the day!

It wasn’t long before we reached the domed entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel and there was much rejoicing.  The sight of Greenwich means the end of another county and the start of a new.  The South East at last!  Through the tunnel and off for a celebratory pizza.

The weather today left a lot to be desired and the scenery was a bit grim at times, but I really had fun.  It won’t be long before the proper coast path appears once more and I can’t wait to join Susan again soon.

Day 31 – Sunday 10 December 2000 - Becontree to Greenwich

11.5 miles walked today

401.5 miles walked in total (average 12.95)

I left Portsmouth at 6.30 am and reached Sam’s in Epsom just before 8.00 am.  After quickly unloading the Christmas presents from my car, Sam and I dashed up to the station to catch the train.  Unfortunately, the trains weren’t running!  So we had a coach trip instead to meet the train up to Waterloo.  We finally got to Barking at 10.30 am to start walking.  The weather was rubbish.  And most of the day was spent trying to convince each other that “it’s getting brighter” – how wrong can someone be?!

We started walking from Becontree through the housing estate I only got halfway through the last time I walked.  I was hoping for some seriously tacky Christmas decoration photo opportunities, but was hugely disappointed.  People in Essex have more taste than I credit them for.  I’ve been watching too many sitcoms.

The rain came down for most of the morning and Sam and I got very wet.  Then the rain stopped and the blustery wind dried us off.  And then it rained and we got very wet.  And then the rain stopped and the blustery wind dried us off again.  You get the picture …

Past the Woolwich ferry and foot tunnel across the Thames (which appeared to be flooded), the walking was quite grim – through lots of industrial estates.  There was an amazing smell of caramelised sugar as we walked past the art deco Tate and Lyle buildings, one of which had a lion on the side of the building and the inscription “out of the strong, came forth sweetness”.

There were some huge puddles in the middle of the roads and most drivers were quite considerate about driving around the edge of them and not drowning us.  However, one lorry came down at such a dash that we knew we would be soaked.  Sam and I stood with our backs to the road and waited for it, and waited, and waited … until we looked round to see a tidal wave come at us in slow motion!  How we laughed …!

Apparently, according to Sam, on a clear day with some glasses, we could have seen to Hackney marshes, if it wasn’t for the houses inbetween.

Actually, I spent most of the day in a state of high excitement – I knew we were going to cross the river and that’s been such a huge milestone for me for ages.  We saw some fabulously well known sights too – which kept us going.  The Thames Barrier, the Millennium Dome, Canary Wharf, the Greenwich Royal Observatory and Old Royal Naval College, the Cutty Sark, Woolwich Ferry, Beckton dry ski slope.  (That last one is a joke by the way.)

The weather cheered up immensely, although it was still very windy, and we were very pleased to finally get to the foot tunnel across to Greenwich.  How the hell did anyone get a Christmas tree on top of the Cutty Sark?

It was an excellent day, despite the weather, and we certainly laughed loads.  I have to say that, if it hadn’t been for Sam, I would actually not have walked today.  I’d have got up, seen the weather and gone back to bed.

So, Sam, it’s all your fault!  Thank you!

Day 30 – Saturday 18 November 2000 - Grays to Becontree

13 miles walked today

390 miles walked in total (average 13)

I left Portsmouth at 6.30 am and made it to Grays at 8.30 am.  The weather looked a bit humptydoodlum (one of Mum’s words) so I decided to go and have breakfast and see whether it was going to rain.  It didn’t, so I started out along the sea wall, through a housing estate, over and under oil jetties and under the Queen Elizabeth Bridge.  I was surprised at how peaceful it was – although I was alarmed to note that the bridge squeaks!

The footpath followed the Thames all the way to Purfleet where I was back on roads, desperately trying to avoid the A13.  This meant a detour via Rainham where I stopped for a drink at The Phoenix.

After a short stop, I pushed on through Dagenham and past the Ford motor works.  This certainly wasn’t the prettiest walking I’ve ever done, although necessary to avoid the A13.  I ended up walking through a huge housing estate of low rise terraced houses, which seemed to go on for miles.  It wasn’t actually as awful as I thought it would be.  This walk is full of surprises!

I carried out my usual decision making process about whether to carry on or not by standing in the middle of the pavement studying my Ordnance Survey map.  A teenage girl came and asked if I was lost and, when I explained my predicament – Barking or Dagenham – she assured me it would only take an hour to walk to Barking.  Unfortunately, neither of us had a watch, so couldn’t work out when I’d get there.  I decided to push on anyway.

However, the weather had other ideas.  Only halfway to Barking, the rain came down.  Luckily, just as I was passing a tube station.  What else could I do but go home?!