Day 16 – Sunday 23 April 2000 – Easter Day - Harwich to Walton on the Naze

13.5 miles walked today

215.5 miles walked in total (average 13.46)

I had an earlyish start – I left the hotel just before nine, but had only gone a couple of hundred yards before nine thirty.  I stopped to chat to an elderly lady and her dog, Tess, who were having an early morning stroll.  She’d lived in Harwich all her life and gave me a brief history of the town.  I met her as I was taking photos of the two disused lighthouses built on stilts in 1863, but replaced by buoys in 1917. 

As we talked, we saw lots of ships in and out and heard their sirens of greeting.  A Stena catamaran came in to dock and my informant pointed out that, as it’s so huge, its wash once knocked some people off the sea wall into the sea.  Stena have since had to pay a rather large fine.

Also visible at sea is Sealand Fort – an eccentric old boy had bought this and started printing his own passports, money and stamps.  When rogue yachtsmen got too near the fort, he’d let rip with a rifle – charming!  However, some very unscrupulous types were using his address on letterheads to form companies who were laundering dodgy money.  I think, at this point, his dream fell apart.

I began on footpaths to Little Oakley where I stopped to write some cards and soak up some sun.  A chap who lived near the post office informed me that it had taken him six hours to walk to Walton on the Naze – on roads, with no pack.  I started to panic again.

While writing my cards, a dotty old woman came up and demanded to know what I was doing.  She and her husband have just walked the South West Coast Path and are off to do the Cleveland Way in a fortnight.

From Little Oakley, I followed a bridlepath and discovered at the end that I’d trespassed and that I could have been prosecuted under the Explosives Act.  I’d certainly have exploded if they’d sent me back the way I’d come.  I hate walking.

I didn’t have to stay on roads for long before I was back on footpaths to Beaumont Quay which is now derelict.  It’s built of stone taken from the Old London Bridge in 1200, but was demolished in 1831.

A little way on from the quay, I found another bench with views to Harwich – another sit down which, I have to say, is the best bit about walking.

I was back on roads to Kirby-le-Soken and the Red Lion pub.  It started to get quite cool at this point, but not cold enough for the fleece.

I came into Walton on the Naze and found a brilliant B&B opposite the pier – a double room for the cost of a single.

After a shower, I checked my feet – unfortunately both the bunions (or whatever they were) have burst into my socks – nice!  I tried my trainers on and they didn’t come up as high as the blistery things, so I managed to walk another couple of miles out to the Naze.  It’s amazing how much more I enjoy walking without a rucksack!

As I walked along the seafront, I joined a crowd watching two fencers in all their gear on the beach.  No-one seemed very surprised at this display.

I had a walk around town to find a cashpoint – I seemed to be a victim of Barclays Bank who have just shut the only bank in the village.  Luckily, I just about had enough money for my B&B and a lasagne in the Victory pub.  Oh, and a beer of course!

It would appear that Walton on the Naze are having a firework display tonight off the pier, the second longest pier in England.  I’d like to think it’s in my honour, but who am I kidding?!  Actually, I really like Walton – it reminds me a lot of Hastings.  There are some really pretty little lanes and the beach is fantastic – miles of sand.  I feel quite virtuous that I’ve taken the time to explore.

(Sam ‘phoned to say that she had watched Jack Dee on television and he’d said the only people who celebrate St George’s Day – today – are people in Essex.  I know it’s a joke, but the fireworks confirmed it!)