Day 6 – Saturday 11 September 1999 - Southwold to Aldeburgh

16 miles walked today

89 miles walked in total (average 14.83)

I celebrated last night in the White Hart in Halesworth, as recommended by Mrs George, my landlady.  It was a bit tricky getting home as the B&B was down an unmade road and was unlit.  Perhaps I should pack a torch?

Also a compass if this morning’s walking was anything to go by.  I walked the Suffolk Coast and Heath Path through the marshes and was a bit concerned when I lost the sea, but the Ordnance Survey map was relatively easy to follow, despite the paths being very overgrown.

Today I was on a mission – to get to Aldeburgh early so I could get a couple of hours’ sunbathing in.  No dawdling today.

I got to Dunwich at midday.  I was quite surprised actually as I thought the village had fallen into the sea?  No time to check out the museum though for the full story – the beach was calling me.  The landlord of the Ship Inn – OK, so I had time for a pint, it would have been rude not to call in – said it would take a good three hours to get to Aldeburgh.

Walked along the road to Dunwich Heath which is owned by the National Trust and is a huge tourist attraction with gift shop, coffee shop and visitors’ centre.  I quite enjoy having a rucksack – it means I can’t buy anything!  I hate carrying more than I need to.

Finally headed back to beach walking on the Suffolk Heath and Coast Path again where I met two walkers who said it would take a good two hours to get to Aldeburgh.  Panic set in – it was two o’clock.  So I made an instant decision – I would sunbathe now and walk later.  I figured I deserved ninety minutes sunning myself.

Once I started again, I had to walk through the dunes which wasn’t very easy, especially as I’d got out of “walk mode” by now.  Sizewell loomed out of the mist, but I was well prepared for it – I’d heard a really annoying hum for ages.

Thorpeness was very pretty and quite posh.  The houses were fantastically huge.  I spotted the House in the Clouds – Sam had told me to keep an eye out for it.  And so had the two old birds I’d been chatting to in the pub last night.  It’s an ex-water tower which has been turned into accommodation and is really quite amazing.

Walked along the prom to get into Aldeburgh and passed the Moot House on the front.  It’s now the Town Clerk’s office, but has been a court, a prison and a cattle market in the past.  

My hotel was very swish – it should have been for what they charge!  But at least it had a bath – I could wallow for a change!