Sunday 26 July 2015

Day 5 – Friday 10 September 1999 - Lowestoft to Southwold

13 miles walked today

73 miles walked in total (average 14.6)

I stayed at Lowestoft last night at the Viking Hotel after getting the train up from Portsmouth after work, so had an early start today on what was a very grey day.  Spent quite a lot of time walking in my fleece as it was cold.

Had a bit of excitement at Lowestoft as I realised I was at the most easterly point I’d get to on my walk.  Only another three directional milestones to go!

At the actual point, there’s a bizarre circle in the centre of the prom with names and distances of various places around the outside of it.  The distances shown are as the crow flies and include Lizard (352), Lands End (364), Cardiff (224), Edinburgh (516), Dunnet Head (472), John O’Groats (465) and London (106), all of which I’ll visit on this trip.

 When I finish my walk, I’ll go to Athens (1,460).  Actually, Athens is the furthest destination covered – presumably because the smog there kills the crows before they can fly any further.

As I was walking around this circle noting the measures, I swear I could hear ghostly church bells coming from the sea.  It was very eerie.  Maybe I’ve read too many ghostly adventure stories.  (Spookily enough, H Rider Haggard used to visit Lowestoft on holiday and had a home at Kessingland.)



I carried on road walking until I got past Lowestoft harbour entrance and carried on along the promenade for a while before finding a public footpath which took me over Pakefield Cliffs.  Walked past my first Ministry of Defence site, but didn’t need to stop as the red flags weren’t flying.  The footpath also went through woods and fields – the woods were especially tricky as the branches were very low and I had to keep bending – not easy with a rucksack.  I don’t like woods much anyway to walk in – too many things to bite, scratch and sting you.

The stretch from Kessingland to Southwold should have taken two and a half hours according to the path signs, but, again, I got distracted.  As I got to Benacre Nature Reserve, I watched in amazement as a huge boat was being built in the middle of nowhere.  It didn’t strike me as being very seaworthy though – it all looked a bit, well, flimsy.  Being well qualified to chat up workmen, I decided to go and investigate.  Apparently, Bob Hoskins is in Suffolk filming a new David Copperfield and the boat is a prop!  Hence the speed with which it was being put together and the apparent flimsiness.


The walk across Covehithe Cliffs was dead easy!  I love grass and cliff walking.  The bit at the other end to Southwold, however, was horrendous – sand and shingle.  (As Amanda pointed out, I shouldn’t really expect anything else at the coast!)

At Southwold, I looked for the lady who caused a furore a couple of years ago, but couldn’t see her.  The residents of Southwold are a bit posh and didn’t want street traders lowering the tone, so they tried to get the licence revoked of the ice cream seller on the front.  She’s quite posh herself actually with a neat little pinny and hat and a proper trolley and parasol.  Probably too cold for her today though.

Southwold is very pretty with a market square and lighthouse in the town.  Also, Adnams Brewery is based here and the pubs look very well patronised.  And, because Southwold is so attractive and in the middle of a drama festival, accommodation is nowhere to be found.  I know I wanted adventures, but not having anywhere to stay was not what I had in mind.  The lady at the tourist office took me to be a complete imbecile for having turned up with nothing booked.  However, she very quickly composed herself and found me a B&B at Halesworth, a twenty minute bus ride from Southwold.


I have to say the B and B was absolutely brilliant and I was very lucky.

I also have to say that my mother may be right – perhaps I ought to book accommodation in advance – it would save a lot of aggro.

I’m still not buying a tent!

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