Day 10 – Sunday 13 February 2000 - Woodbridge to Waldringfield

7 miles walked today

136 miles walked in total (average 13.6)

I’m putting today down to experience!

Had an early start – up at six, out of Mum and Dad’s house at seven and walking at ten to nine.  Another glorious day – very bright and very warm, although a bit breezy.

Complacency set in fairly soon – walking through some lovely countryside and enjoying the spring day, I started to follow the Suffolk Coast Cycle Route and didn’t pay too much attention to the map.

Waldringfield is absolutely beautiful – there are some fantastic houses and the view across the Deben is stunning.  I’d been set a task by Pippa from work to go and find her parents’ boat, Triptych, which is in the boatyard.  I’m sure this walk is becoming a Treasure Hunt for other people’s amusement.

Finally back on footpaths after endless road walking.  And this has been my downfall today.  On my map, only one path is shown going out of Waldringfield.  But, in the real world, there were two paths.  The least appealing one was uphill, so I ignored it.  The second path led alongside the river so I took this one.  However, walking through marshes after weeks of rain had to be a bad idea!  I got cut off by the tide and had to turn back.  As far as the pub – where I decided to call it a day and start again on the correct path the next time I come up here.

I’ve learned three important lessons today:-

1.	Don’t necessarily rule something out because it looks like hard work.

2.	Always check the tide tables!

3.	No walking is ever wasted – those two miles which took me the wrong way were fantastic to walk and I’d really have missed out by not walking them.

But I’ve learned something else too – my boots really are waterproof!

Day 9 – Wednesday 29 December 1999 - Hollesley to Woodbridge

14 miles walked today

129 miles walked in total (average 14.33)

I always knew today would be difficult – too much sitting around, eating and drinking for the past month.  Not to mention the disaster with my knee and a nasty flu bug to top it all off.

However, today I started off with new boots, new knee support and new gloves – ready for anything.

It was still dark as I set out from Mum and Dad’s to drive to Suffolk.  Because of the distance and the icy roads, I didn’t get walking until quarter to eleven, which doesn’t suit me at all.  I like to get most of my miles done in the morning so I can have a leisurely afternoon.

As I was admiring the view across to Felixstowe Ferry from Bawdsey Quay, a fisherman came to ask if I wanted to go across.  If I did, all I needed to do was wave across the estuary and the ferryman would come and get me.  How very civilised!

It was a very crisp, but sunny day.  Most of the ponds and puddles I saw were iced over.

I walked some of the way through Bawdsey with the Church Warden who apparently is a keen walker, although usually in the Lake District.  I told her about my harebrained scheme and she wished me luck.  Think I’ll need it!  Before I left her, she told me the best pubs in the area to have lunch.  I disregarded her advice totally and made for the Ramsholt Arms as recommended by Pippa from work.

Saw more deer this afternoon on Sutton Heath.  It was very bleak and cold walking across the heath, made worse by the sun going down at an alarming rate.  Started to panic that I wouldn’t make my goal of Woodbridge in daylight.

Having spent many a happy hour getting lost while driving around Woodbridge the last time I was up here, I was surprised to see the town looming up soon after leaving the heath.  I’d discovered another route in!

Day 8 – Saturday 20 November 1999 - Campsea Ashe to Hollesley

15.5 miles walked today

115 miles walked in total (average 14.37)

A very grey day today – cold and wet.

Started at 8.30 am and retraced my steps from my last day’s walking between Blaxhall and Snape Maltings.  All road walking today – and all this pavement pounding has played havoc with my knees.

From the Maltings, the road went through Tunstall Forest towards Orford.  The colours were fantastic – most of the trees had lost their leaves, but those that hadn’t were covered in all shades of gold and red.  There was also an awful lot of dead brown bracken around and gorse bushes in yellow flower.

Walking towards Iken Heath, I could see across Long Reach Creek, which I had seen before from the other side coming out of Aldeburgh.

As I walked through the forest, I stopped suddenly and watched five deer stroll sedately across the road.  Later in the day, I heard rustling just off the road and saw some more little deer faces peering at me from above the hedge.

Orford is a beautiful little village surrounding a square with a huge church, ruined castle (now run by English Heritage), four pubs and numerous restaurants and antique shops.  Even the general stores were tucked around the back of some houses so they wouldn’t spoil the look of the place.  The Oyster Restaurant in the square uses oysters caught in Butley Creek as part of a regeneration project.  Oysters had died out in this part of Suffolk until about twenty years ago when they were reintroduced.  The fish cooked in the restaurant is all smoked in the village smokery.

Walked to Butley in the rain and stopped for lunch at the Oyster Inn.  Decided to carry on walking as I was wet anyway.  No point in stopping now!

As I walked through Capel St Andrew, I was astounded at the village sign – the most unvillagey sign I’ve ever seen, but absolutely fantastic.

It was signed by Paul Richardson who is obviously a local sculptor.  After about two hundred yards’ walking, I discovered how local!  There were three similar figures in a local garden – one a female tourist snapping photos and one a chap in shorts smoking a cigarette.  The pièce de résistance, however, appeared to be a polo pony and rider sitting in the back garden!

The village sign was unveiled in August 1999 as part of the millennium celebrations.  Capel St Andrew is actually a hamlet with maybe a dozen houses as far as I could see.  The sign depicts St Andrew (for the name) the fisherman, with fish and a halo.  It shows an oak tree representing the local Oak Wood and a deer as there are still so many running wild in the area.  At the saint’s feet stands a small oak church (also for the name) made by another village resident, Keith Cutmore, a retired shipwright engineer.  And the whole thing cost £1,100, which was raised by the local community.

I was desperate to knock on Mr Richardson’s door and ask permission to take some photos of his figures, but even I haven’t got the cheek for that!

Got to Hollesley about four miles later – what a letdown after Capel St Andrew.  Gruesome houses and a truly grim pub, which I had to use to call a local taxi firm to take me back to the Ship at Blaxhall, where I was staying.

Rain, cold, failing light and pulled hamstring stopped play!

After a quick shower, I left all my rainsoaked clothes drying above the heaters in my room and drove into Woodbridge to have a look around.  Didn’t get to see too much as everything was closed and the light had completely gone, so went back to the Ship for dinner – the food had been recommended by the taxi driver earlier.

What an excellent pub – superb food and classical music!

Day 7 – Sunday 12 September 1999 - Aldeburgh to Campsea Ashe

10.5 miles walked today

99.5 miles walked in total (average 14.21)

Up earlyish for breakfast today.  Some mad fools were already in the sea at eight o’clock.  I’d woken early anyway, as my room was on the top floor of the hotel and faced the sea and had the full benefit of the sun streaming through at an unlikely hour!

All road walking today.  I got quite cheesed off and very out of puff because the walk out of Aldeburgh was all uphill.  Had my first (unpermitted) sit down on the golf course overlooking the River Alde and Long Reach Creek.

I made good time getting to Snape so decided to go and look around Snape Maltings, which Benjamin Britten turned into a world class concert venue and which now also has a range of very exclusive shops.  I know I can’t buy anything of substance while carrying my rucksack, but I can buy the odd postcard.  However, I’m buggered if I’m going to pay fifty pence for one – my look around Snape Maltings did not last very long!

Headed off to Blaxhall and to suss out where the youth hostel is for my next walking weekend.  As I was sitting on the grass verge outside yet another posh house – I’ve discovered a habit of trespassing! – twenty or thirty mad cyclists rode past and yelled out “good morning” as a chorus.  Decided I’d better leg it before the house owners came and found me.

I was slightly confused by the road sign in Blaxhall for Campsea Ashe, which wasn’t in the direction shown on my Ordnance Survey map.  The landlord of the Ship Inn told me there were two ways and the one on the road sign was the easiest to follow – which decided me to follow the road signs and throw the map away!

I’m finding pub landlords very helpful actually – when I get slightly lost, I generally look out for  post offices, local newsagents or pubs and I always get the best advice in the pub.  Plus a pint, of course!

Got very excited at Campsea Ash (according to the Ordnance Survey map) or Campsea Ashe (as per the road sign) as this is where Wickham Market station is found.  I was going home!

Day 6 – Saturday 11 September 1999 - Southwold to Aldeburgh

16 miles walked today

89 miles walked in total (average 14.83)

I celebrated last night in the White Hart in Halesworth, as recommended by Mrs George, my landlady.  It was a bit tricky getting home as the B&B was down an unmade road and was unlit.  Perhaps I should pack a torch?

Also a compass if this morning’s walking was anything to go by.  I walked the Suffolk Coast and Heath Path through the marshes and was a bit concerned when I lost the sea, but the Ordnance Survey map was relatively easy to follow, despite the paths being very overgrown.

Today I was on a mission – to get to Aldeburgh early so I could get a couple of hours’ sunbathing in.  No dawdling today.

I got to Dunwich at midday.  I was quite surprised actually as I thought the village had fallen into the sea?  No time to check out the museum though for the full story – the beach was calling me.  The landlord of the Ship Inn – OK, so I had time for a pint, it would have been rude not to call in – said it would take a good three hours to get to Aldeburgh.

Walked along the road to Dunwich Heath which is owned by the National Trust and is a huge tourist attraction with gift shop, coffee shop and visitors’ centre.  I quite enjoy having a rucksack – it means I can’t buy anything!  I hate carrying more than I need to.

Finally headed back to beach walking on the Suffolk Heath and Coast Path again where I met two walkers who said it would take a good two hours to get to Aldeburgh.  Panic set in – it was two o’clock.  So I made an instant decision – I would sunbathe now and walk later.  I figured I deserved ninety minutes sunning myself.

Once I started again, I had to walk through the dunes which wasn’t very easy, especially as I’d got out of “walk mode” by now.  Sizewell loomed out of the mist, but I was well prepared for it – I’d heard a really annoying hum for ages.

Thorpeness was very pretty and quite posh.  The houses were fantastically huge.  I spotted the House in the Clouds – Sam had told me to keep an eye out for it.  And so had the two old birds I’d been chatting to in the pub last night.  It’s an ex-water tower which has been turned into accommodation and is really quite amazing.

Walked along the prom to get into Aldeburgh and passed the Moot House on the front.  It’s now the Town Clerk’s office, but has been a court, a prison and a cattle market in the past.  

My hotel was very swish – it should have been for what they charge!  But at least it had a bath – I could wallow for a change! 

Day 5 – Friday 10 September 1999 - Lowestoft to Southwold

13 miles walked today

73 miles walked in total (average 14.6)

I stayed at Lowestoft last night at the Viking Hotel after getting the train up from Portsmouth after work, so had an early start today on what was a very grey day.  Spent quite a lot of time walking in my fleece as it was cold.

Had a bit of excitement at Lowestoft as I realised I was at the most easterly point I’d get to on my walk.  Only another three directional milestones to go!

At the actual point, there’s a bizarre circle in the centre of the prom with names and distances of various places around the outside of it.  The distances shown are as the crow flies and include Lizard (352), Lands End (364), Cardiff (224), Edinburgh (516), Dunnet Head (472), John O’Groats (465) and London (106), all of which I’ll visit on this trip.

 When I finish my walk, I’ll go to Athens (1,460).  Actually, Athens is the furthest destination covered – presumably because the smog there kills the crows before they can fly any further.

As I was walking around this circle noting the measures, I swear I could hear ghostly church bells coming from the sea.  It was very eerie.  Maybe I’ve read too many ghostly adventure stories.  (Spookily enough, H Rider Haggard used to visit Lowestoft on holiday and had a home at Kessingland.)

I carried on road walking until I got past Lowestoft harbour entrance and carried on along the promenade for a while before finding a public footpath which took me over Pakefield Cliffs.  Walked past my first Ministry of Defence site, but didn’t need to stop as the red flags weren’t flying.  The footpath also went through woods and fields – the woods were especially tricky as the branches were very low and I had to keep bending – not easy with a rucksack.  I don’t like woods much anyway to walk in – too many things to bite, scratch and sting you.

The stretch from Kessingland to Southwold should have taken two and a half hours according to the path signs, but, again, I got distracted.  As I got to Benacre Nature Reserve, I watched in amazement as a huge boat was being built in the middle of nowhere.  It didn’t strike me as being very seaworthy though – it all looked a bit, well, flimsy.  Being well qualified to chat up workmen, I decided to go and investigate.  Apparently, Bob Hoskins is in Suffolk filming a new David Copperfield and the boat is a prop!  Hence the speed with which it was being put together and the apparent flimsiness.

The walk across Covehithe Cliffs was dead easy!  I love grass and cliff walking.  The bit at the other end to Southwold, however, was horrendous – sand and shingle.  (As Amanda pointed out, I shouldn’t really expect anything else at the coast!)

At Southwold, I looked for the lady who caused a furore a couple of years ago, but couldn’t see her.  The residents of Southwold are a bit posh and didn’t want street traders lowering the tone, so they tried to get the licence revoked of the ice cream seller on the front.  She’s quite posh herself actually with a neat little pinny and hat and a proper trolley and parasol.  Probably too cold for her today though.

Southwold is very pretty with a market square and lighthouse in the town.  Also, Adnams Brewery is based here and the pubs look very well patronised.  And, because Southwold is so attractive and in the middle of a drama festival, accommodation is nowhere to be found.  I know I wanted adventures, but not having anywhere to stay was not what I had in mind.  The lady at the tourist office took me to be a complete imbecile for having turned up with nothing booked.  However, she very quickly composed herself and found me a B&B at Halesworth, a twenty minute bus ride from Southwold.

I have to say the B and B was absolutely brilliant and I was very lucky.

I also have to say that my mother may be right – perhaps I ought to book accommodation in advance – it would save a lot of aggro.

I’m still not buying a tent!

Day 4 – Sunday 29 August 1999 - Winterton to Lowestoft

22 miles walked today

60 miles walked in total (average 15)

Had a late start today.  To my surprise, when I got back to Mum and Dad’s yesterday I found a load of cousins (well, only five but they make a lot of noise!) and my brother, Rat, setting up the barbecue.  Mum and Dad must be the only people I know who can throw an impromptu party for twelve without having to rush out for more food and beer!  After the Welfares had left, we adjourned indoors and Dad found the whiskey bottle.  It’s a good job he’s never run a pub – his profit margin would be nil as his measures are skyhigh.  After one shot (which was more than enough), Amanda and I arranged to leave the house this morning at 8.30 am.

However, at that time, only Shannon and myself were up and about.  So I didn’t start walking until ten o’clock.

From Winterton, the walk was through sand dunes until Hemsby when I walked through a holiday home estate to Scratby and California.

I’m fairly sure we stayed at California in 1977 – it was the Queen’s Silver Jubilee and I was about to change schools.  I’m not entirely confident of the year – we had so many fantastic holidays as kids and went all over Britain, that I only have one huge, happy, holiday memory that encompasses everywhere we’ve ever been.

           

From California, I followed a dismantled railway to Caister, where, again, I watched some more coastal defence work.  I found it fascinating to watch a small tug towing a huge container ship, especially when that ship was carrying all the boulders to shore up the beach.

I got very excited as I got close to Great Yarmouth – here was somewhere I recognised.  Of course, the place was heaving!  And, as well as the tourist element, all the bowling greens were well populated.  I’ve never seen so many white shirts and ties since I was at Holy Trinity Junior School.

There were huge banners up over town advertising the Radio 1 Road Show which I was relieved to discover that I’d missed by a couple of days.  The fewer distractions I have from walking, the better!

I’m not getting as many miles covered as I’d hoped – too many shops, too many parks to sit in, too many good places to have lunch, etc.

After lunch, I had a really gutty walk down the abandoned South Beach past the power station and docks area.  As I got to the harbour entrance, I could see across to Gorleston, but it would take me another hour and a half to get there.

At Gorleston, I decided to call it a day, but could find nowhere to stay.  I ended up in Lowestoft, some two and a half hours later, exhausted, sunburnt, shivery and smelly.  What an attractive picture I presented at the reception desk of the Viking Hotel!  They very politely declined to comment on this vagrant who had wandered in and gave me a wonderful double room for the price of a single.  Stars!

The evening was spent, after a shower and good deal of grooming, in the bar with a pint of lager shandy to celebrate.  A very successful day.

Oh, and I’m in Suffolk too! 

Day 3 – Saturday 28 August 1999 - Bacton to Winterton

13.5 miles walked today

38 miles walked in total (average 12.66)

Got the coach to Norwich last night and stayed at Mum and Dad’s so I could start with no gaps today.  Woke up early as planned, but spent an hour mooching around getting ready.  As I was trying to sniff out where I’d left my boots the last time I was here, having spent ten minutes unsuccessfully forcing my gear into my bag, Dad suggested that he pick me up from wherever I finished today and drop me back in the morning so I could stay another night.  However, I was planning to walk further than Dad was planning to drive, so Amanda stepped in and offered transport.  Spent a very successful few minutes then unpacking my bag so I didn’t carry any more than I needed for the day.

The walk to Happisburgh was on soft sand once I’d got past Walcott on the sea wall.  At Happisburgh, I climbed the ramp past the lifeboat station and headed over the cliffs on to Sea Palling.   I was very pleased that I seemed to be making good time.  The cliff walking didn’t last long and I had to walk through a housing estate from Cart Gap until I could find a path back up to the sand dunes that run along the stretch of coast to Winterton.

Stopped at Sea Palling for an early lunch and to find some plasters.  How I could have rubbed blisters after having had my boots for six years is anybody’s guess!  I did have to empty my boots of sand at least five times today though so maybe that’s the reason.

Sea Palling’s sea defences have been in a serious state since the bad storms in the 1950s.  There are now manmade reefs out at sea which have formed lagoons – to make bathing safer and to shore up the coastline a bit longer.  I can’t help thinking though that diverting the waves from one bit of coast to another isn’t really going to solve anything ultimately.

Very hot for walking again today – what on earth possessed me into wearing a black teeshirt?  Lunacy!  And to think I panicked yesterday when I realised I’d left my new fleece at work!

I saw my first nudists today!  I kept tripping over them as I walked the path through the dunes.  I don’t really understand why they can’t go and lay on the beach?

After the umpteenth naked body, I decided to head down into Decoy Wood and walk through the nature reserve which was covered in heather.  This wasn’t a good idea as it was also covered in brambles and I ended up with bloody legs.  After a while, thinking the naturist beach was behind me, I headed up the dunes again to carry on into Winterton which I could now see.

I met a chap walking in the opposite direction to me and he asked if I’d stumbled across any naturists as he was looking for the beach.  I told him that he had an hour’s more walking to go so he decided to give it a miss – lightweight!  I should add here that he was fully clothed.  I don’t make a habit of talking to strange naked men.  Well, not so early in a relationship anyway …

He and his wife discovered naturism a few years ago and make their annual pilgrimage to Studland Bay in Dorset with the odd weekend at Corton (Great Yarmouth) and up at Holkham (North Norfolk).  He said he’d give me a wave when I got to Corton tomorrow!

I said I didn’t understand why the naturists were all in the sand dunes, waiting for me to fall over them, and not down on the beach.  Apparently they like to be discreet!  My new friend suggested that, as soon as I’d seen the first, I should have whipped my gear off and gone walking au naturel.  Would I have been allowed to keep my boots and socks on, I wonder?

Day 2 – Wednesday 4 August 1999 - Sheringham to Bacton

15 miles walked today

24.5 miles walked in total (average 12.25)

Earlyish start today after breakfast at the Youth Hostel.  Walked along the front for a couple of miles, but decided to head up the cliffs to avoid the shingle.  At the top, we turned back to find we had avoided Beeston Hill too – phew!

I’m not very good at hills and steps and frequently looked up to see Nicholas at the top yelling encouragement and promising me I could have a drink and a break when I made it!

A thick fog came down as we entered Cromer which was disappointing, although it was still very hot.  Because there are caravan parks all along the cliffs and the coast path is no longer accessible, we ended up doing some road walking.

Fortified after a cream tea in Cromer, we made our way up to the cliffs to the lighthouse and only just saw it through the fog.  Then followed a good springy walk through the golf course, which is laid out in terraces down the side of the cliff, to Overstrand where, again, we were back on road for a good eight miles to our target of Bacton.

This walking was very difficult and we both found it very tiresome and sloggy.  Nicholas decided he couldn’t go any further than Paston (only one and a half miles short of Bacton), but seemed reluctant and disappointed to admit defeat.  However, twenty-three miles in blistering heat with a rucksack for an eleven year old over two days is no mean feat and deserves recognition.  Very well done, mate!

So Amanda was summoned to pick Nicholas up – and my rucksack too.  Oh, what bliss!  What joy!  A couple of burden free miles!

The last bit through Bacton gas terminal would hardly be called scenic for most people, but it brought back some lovely memories of the past couple of years while I worked there.  Bacton gas terminal threw up some of the best opportunities I’ve ever had.

Last stretch of walk was along the beach, but I resisted all thought of going for a paddle.  I knew that, once I’d got my boots and socks off, I’d have to be wrestled back into them!

Day 1 – Tuesday 3 August 1999 - Cley to Sheringham

9.5 miles walked today

9.5 miles walked in total (average 9.5)

We’re off!

We’ve started at Cley for no other reason than that my Lonely Planet Guide to Walking in Britain said it was a good place to walk from.

It’s been a bit of a palaver to get organised and packed.  The last time I was in Norfolk – at the beginning of July – Amanda, Shannon and I popped into Great Yarmouth to buy my daypack, mapholder and water bottle.  Or so I thought …

Apparently the girls were on a mission to see what I wanted for my birthday (which was yesterday) so I was made to put everything back on the shelves.  Anything I didn’t get would entail a mad dash to Norwich yesterday to buy it.  But all was OK.  Thank you Mum and Dad for my rucksack and mapholder.  And to Amanda, Shannon and Nicholas for my water bottle and magic ruler.

Mum dropped us at Cley Windmill this morning and we were walking at 10.15 am.  It was a difficult walk for the first few miles as the path followed the shingle above the beach.

Almost as soon as we started walking along the Cley Marshes, Nicholas had spotted a machine gun pod and was enthusiastically showing how it worked.  A while later, we again looked for military equipment as we walked along the back of the Muckleburgh Collection, but all we managed to see were a couple of huge jeeps charging around with more tourists on than they should legally be carrying!

The beach along the stretch to Weybourne was absolutely filthy – we weren’t sure whether it was household waste that had been dumped or whether it had been dumped out at sea by fishing boats.

Lunch was very welcome at Weybourne and this marked the start of easier walking on grass, over the golf course to Sheringham.  Everyone assumes that Norfolk is very flat, but, once you’ve walked it, you know otherwise!  Nicholas strode ahead manfully and got bored at the top of the hills waiting for me to catch up.  Halfway down a particularly horrid descent, we spotted a wallet which meant climbing up again to the coastguard station to hand it in.

As we got into Sheringham, we stumbled across a lifeboat exhibition with three old lifeboats on show.  The first was built in the very early 1900s, costing £1,000 and complete with oars!  Thank goodness things have come on since then.

Tonight we’re staying at the Youth Hostel – we’ve already made our room as smelly as possible by shedding our boots and trainers.  We’ve exhausted the possibilities of the TV lounge and small library and it’s only 8.30 pm.  Time for bed!