THE DIARY OF SAM J - SATURDAY 20 JANUARY 2001

Our walk started at 9.50 am from the Millennium Dome, Greenwich.  It seems bizarre that, just a month ago, the area would have been packed with visitors.  Fantastic walking weather – sunny, but very cold, with a covering of snow.

We found our way to the Thames Path and our first proper view of the Barrier.  The water was very still and peaceful.  Very soon we reached the Barrier and we were looking forward to visiting the information centre.  Unfortunately, it doesn’t open until 5 February 2001.  The toilets were open however and they had the smallest cubicles known to man (or woman in this case).

Had a sit down outside the coffee shop (opens beginning of March!).  Paul had prepared a flask of coffee for us so we had a quick drink and we were on our way again.

There was no path by the river from here on so we made our way inland, through Charlton and Woolwich.  Very depressing area, so I’ll say no more about it.

We were back onto dual carriageways as we made towards Thamesmead.  Having seen signs for a new superstore, we decided that we would have lunch there.  After nearly an hour of walking along grass verges, through the car park of Belmarsh Prison and the central reservation of a dual carriageway, we finally made it to civilisation and Safeway.

Whilst tucking into our jacket potato with beans and cheese (Susan) and chips (me), we checked the map.  We were spurred on by the fact that, dependent on the weather, we could reach Gravesend on Sunday … that’s nearly the seaside!

Away we went, this time following the Green Chain path that ran all the way to Erith, our probable destination for the day.  Highlights included a three legged cat, children trying to kill themselves by walking across the frozen river that ran alongside the path and flats that had garden sheds on their balconies.

On a hillside just outside the estate were the ruined walls of Lesnes Abbey.  They seem to be very well looked after, although I’m sure they get a bit of stick from the local yobs from time to time.  It looked really pretty with its snow capped walls so we sat down and had another coffee.

It was starting to get cold again, so we headed off into the woods that lie on the outskirts of Erith.  We saw a fox, squirrels and various birds.  Well, I did.  Susan pretended to see them as she didn’t have her specs on.

Reached Erith station at 4.05 pm just in time for our legs to give way.  We’ll have to see what the weather is like tomorrow before we set out.  The forecast is not favourable.

SUNDAY 21 JANUARY 2001

7.30 am.  Got up.  Raining.  Went back to bed.

Day 32 – Saturday 20 January 2001 - Greenwich to Erith

10.5 miles walked today

412 miles walked in total (average 12.87)

This morning, Sam and I were walking just before ten o’clock.  It had been a bit touch and go whether we’d actually walk today – due to snow, sleet and me desperate for a lay in!  I left Portsmouth slightly later than I’d anticipated – it was so cold, I really didn’t want to drag myself out of bed!

Our first major landmark was the Dome again.  I’d been at Christmas with Shannon and Nicholas and had seen the huge queues of people, visiting before it shut on New Year’s Eve.  However, today it was deserted.  It looked very sad in the snow and frost.

We followed the river path for a little while and soon stumbled over a solar sundial.  When the dial shows twelve noon on the twenty-first of the month, it is actually eleven minutes out.  Apparently, this is normal and nothing to be concerned about!

We got very excited as we approached the Thames flood barrier – we walked through a covered tunnel which showed (in scale) locks, bridges, lighthouses and other landmarks along the one hundred and eighty mile length of the river, along with their corresponding heights above sea level.  We were eager to see the visitor centre to find out how the barrier worked, but, unfortunately, it was shut until February.  Hey ho!

From here, it was inland again on roads, pavements, HM Prison Belmarsh car park and dual carriageway central reservations to Thamesmead and lunch.  Because it was so cold in the morning, we’d worn rather a lot of layers so, by the time we got to Safeways for lunch, we were very hot and bothered.  On this basis, we sat down for an hour and lost quite a lot of walking time!

After lunch, we were back on a very well signposted footpath – the Green Chain Walk – to Erith.  It meandered vaguely through lots of housing estates until we finally got to some greenery again and stumbled across Lesnes Abbey ruins.  It looked so pretty covered in snow and frost.  We did quite a lot of swearing too about Henry VIII and his savagery of the abbeys in general.  The abbey has only been excavated since the beginning of the twentieth century and is looked after by a conservation group run by Bexley Borough Council.

The abbey is quite a way (uphill) from the river and we were surprised to note that the grounds were completely under water between 1230 and 1240, due to the disastrous flooding of the Thames.  That must have been a flood and a half!

From the abbey, the path went through a wood and we saw a fox, some squirrels and a jay. Or at least, Sam saw them and pointed them out to me and I saw them eventually when we were a bit nearer.  Perhaps I ought to start wearing my glasses.

We finally got to Erith and were very relieved to call it a day.  At four o’clock, we were beginning to lose the daylight and we were beginning to feel the cold again, despite the various layers of clothing.  Also, Sam’s knees and my feet were refusing to go any further.  It’s been a great day – not too many miles covered, but plenty to see.

  

THE DIARY OF SAM J - SUNDAY 10 DECEMBER 2000

The day didn’t get off to the greatest of starts due to engineering works at Epsom.  So, after a short bus ride, we made our way to Becontree. By the time we started walking at 10.30 am, we were an hour behind schedule.  The weather had deteriorated while we were on the train, so we started off in the pouring rain.  We considered going shopping instead, but the thought of missing out on walking through a housing estate and alongside the North Circular was too much.  It did clear up a bit, briefly, and there was just enough blue sky to make a sailor a pair of trousers, but it didn’t last long.

We passed along a particularly scary footpath that was littered with half a dozen abandoned motorbikes so we quickened our pace somewhat only to reach an industrial estate and rubbish tip!  Another shower of rain followed and another dual carriageway when we had our first view of some of the more famous landmarks on our route.

We stood in the sunshine, admiring the view of London City Airport, the Millennium Dome and Canary Wharf.  We noticed the backdrop of black clouds and decided – yes, they were heading our way.  At the Woolwich Ferry we reached the Thames for the first time, the opposite bank seemed so close you could almost swim to it.  I did suggest to Susan that she should invest in an inflatable pontoon that she could fling across any body of water that was hampering her route, but I don’t think she was impressed.  It was at this juncture that the heavens opened.  And, boy, did they open!

What people must have thought of us as we cowered beside the wall of the Tate and Lyle factory, in a torrential thunderstorm, wearing practically identical waterproof coats and carrying an Ordnance Survey map, I’d love to know.  We were hysterical by this time and wondering why we were doing such a stupid thing when we could have been in a nice cosy pub, but it was just another shower and we soon dried off in the force nine gale that followed.  That was all the rain for the day and we walked for the rest of the day in brilliant sunshine!

We were soon on the Isle of Dogs and on the home stretch.  There is a walkway along the river for most of the way here and the opportunity to have a nose in people’s windows!  Some of the apartments have spectacular views over the river to the Dome and we could see the Royal Observatory on the hill in Greenwich, our target for the day!

It wasn’t long before we reached the domed entrance to the Greenwich foot tunnel and there was much rejoicing.  The sight of Greenwich means the end of another county and the start of a new.  The South East at last!  Through the tunnel and off for a celebratory pizza.

The weather today left a lot to be desired and the scenery was a bit grim at times, but I really had fun.  It won’t be long before the proper coast path appears once more and I can’t wait to join Susan again soon.

Day 31 – Sunday 10 December 2000 - Becontree to Greenwich

11.5 miles walked today

401.5 miles walked in total (average 12.95)

I left Portsmouth at 6.30 am and reached Sam’s in Epsom just before 8.00 am.  After quickly unloading the Christmas presents from my car, Sam and I dashed up to the station to catch the train.  Unfortunately, the trains weren’t running!  So we had a coach trip instead to meet the train up to Waterloo.  We finally got to Barking at 10.30 am to start walking.  The weather was rubbish.  And most of the day was spent trying to convince each other that “it’s getting brighter” – how wrong can someone be?!

We started walking from Becontree through the housing estate I only got halfway through the last time I walked.  I was hoping for some seriously tacky Christmas decoration photo opportunities, but was hugely disappointed.  People in Essex have more taste than I credit them for.  I’ve been watching too many sitcoms.

The rain came down for most of the morning and Sam and I got very wet.  Then the rain stopped and the blustery wind dried us off.  And then it rained and we got very wet.  And then the rain stopped and the blustery wind dried us off again.  You get the picture …

Past the Woolwich ferry and foot tunnel across the Thames (which appeared to be flooded), the walking was quite grim – through lots of industrial estates.  There was an amazing smell of caramelised sugar as we walked past the art deco Tate and Lyle buildings, one of which had a lion on the side of the building and the inscription “out of the strong, came forth sweetness”.

There were some huge puddles in the middle of the roads and most drivers were quite considerate about driving around the edge of them and not drowning us.  However, one lorry came down at such a dash that we knew we would be soaked.  Sam and I stood with our backs to the road and waited for it, and waited, and waited … until we looked round to see a tidal wave come at us in slow motion!  How we laughed …!

Apparently, according to Sam, on a clear day with some glasses, we could have seen to Hackney marshes, if it wasn’t for the houses inbetween.

Actually, I spent most of the day in a state of high excitement – I knew we were going to cross the river and that’s been such a huge milestone for me for ages.  We saw some fabulously well known sights too – which kept us going.  The Thames Barrier, the Millennium Dome, Canary Wharf, the Greenwich Royal Observatory and Old Royal Naval College, the Cutty Sark, Woolwich Ferry, Beckton dry ski slope.  (That last one is a joke by the way.)

The weather cheered up immensely, although it was still very windy, and we were very pleased to finally get to the foot tunnel across to Greenwich.  How the hell did anyone get a Christmas tree on top of the Cutty Sark?

It was an excellent day, despite the weather, and we certainly laughed loads.  I have to say that, if it hadn’t been for Sam, I would actually not have walked today.  I’d have got up, seen the weather and gone back to bed.

So, Sam, it’s all your fault!  Thank you!

Day 30 – Saturday 18 November 2000 - Grays to Becontree

13 miles walked today

390 miles walked in total (average 13)

I left Portsmouth at 6.30 am and made it to Grays at 8.30 am.  The weather looked a bit humptydoodlum (one of Mum’s words) so I decided to go and have breakfast and see whether it was going to rain.  It didn’t, so I started out along the sea wall, through a housing estate, over and under oil jetties and under the Queen Elizabeth Bridge.  I was surprised at how peaceful it was – although I was alarmed to note that the bridge squeaks!

The footpath followed the Thames all the way to Purfleet where I was back on roads, desperately trying to avoid the A13.  This meant a detour via Rainham where I stopped for a drink at The Phoenix.

After a short stop, I pushed on through Dagenham and past the Ford motor works.  This certainly wasn’t the prettiest walking I’ve ever done, although necessary to avoid the A13.  I ended up walking through a huge housing estate of low rise terraced houses, which seemed to go on for miles.  It wasn’t actually as awful as I thought it would be.  This walk is full of surprises!

I carried out my usual decision making process about whether to carry on or not by standing in the middle of the pavement studying my Ordnance Survey map.  A teenage girl came and asked if I was lost and, when I explained my predicament – Barking or Dagenham – she assured me it would only take an hour to walk to Barking.  Unfortunately, neither of us had a watch, so couldn’t work out when I’d get there.  I decided to push on anyway.

However, the weather had other ideas.  Only halfway to Barking, the rain came down.  Luckily, just as I was passing a tube station.  What else could I do but go home?!

Day 29 – Sunday 1 October 2000 - Stanford-le-Hope to Grays

11 miles walked today

377 miles walked in total (average 13)

Today, I’ve walked in trainers.  Despite my best efforts to dry my footwear out, I failed.  My socks did very well on the heated towel rail in my room last night, but the boots refused to cooperate with the wall heater.

I was walking before nine and made good progress to East Tilbury and Coalhouse Fort.  The weather was gorgeous – very warm and bright.  I can’t believe how rural and peaceful East Tilbury village is – I was expecting the worst.  But it really is very countrified.

While taking a break at Coalhouse Fort to take in the views along the Thames, a tourist boat went by, giving the commentary on various highlights on the way.  It’s so peaceful – it’s hard to believe it’s only a short stretch to heavily industrialised docks.

From the fort, the path hugged the Thames to West Tilbury power station.  I was amazed at how many small boats were on the water – nestling in among the huge ships.  I also spotted the paddle steamer “Waverley” ferrying a load of sightseers.  Along the path, a couple of old fires were smouldering, but it soon became apparent who’d started them as I stumbled across three young fishermen with their bivvy and their bikes.  It was strangely peaceful, except for the odd ship’s siren.

Just past Tilbury Fort, where some sort of military day was going on, I stopped for lunch at the World’s End pub.  I’d met a couple on their bikes and stopped for a natter.  They told me I’d make Grays easily today and could even get to Purfleet.  However, the next bit was tough walking on roads again (and major ones at that) through industrial estates and built up areas to Grays.  True to form, the rain started as I got into the town centre, so I decided to call it a day.

A good weekend in all – I’ve really enjoyed it and feel very motivated to keep going.

Day 28 – Saturday 30 September 2000 - Benfleet to Stanford-le-Hope

10 miles walked today

366 miles walked in total (average 13.07)

I started out just after nine o’clock from the Ferry Boat Inn at North Fambridge – again!  The lady recognised me yesterday and asked where I’d got to so far.  She’s asked me to send an occasional postcard to show progress as she’s quite into this walk now.

I parked the car at Benfleet Station at about nine thirty and was immediately on footpaths through a playing field and then along the back of houses besides the railway track.  It was very peaceful except for the odd train thundering past.

The track went under the A130 and then carried on along the railway line and passed through St Margaret’s churchyard.  About a dozen people were very busy shovelling gravel around the church paths and one of them even tried to hand me a spade so I could help.

The path followed the railway to Pitsea Station where the line divided right and left.  I took the left fork, passing over the line and through fields to a big timber yard. The path became very overgrown and unmaintained at this point – I think I’ve found that Essex farmer who’s deliberately obstructing the path.  I got stung, bitten, cut and my boots were saturated by the wet grass.  After a while, and extremely cheesed off, I retraced my steps back to the timber yard and crossed the railway to walk along the A13 dual carriageway.  Not my idea of fun.  I got off the A13 at the first junction towards Fobbing and stopped for lunch in the White Lion.

From Fobbing, I located a couple of paths to Corringham, but still had to walk along another road and I must say the A1014 has a real nerve being a dual carriageway when bugger all traffic uses it.  I can think of more deserving roads for dual carriageway status – the A140 to Mum and Dad’s for instance – murder when you’re stuck behind a tractor.

Again, I took the first exit I could – to Stanford-le-Hope. I felt quite vindicated though, as I could see the Thames in all its glory, even if I wasn’t walking beside it.  I was quite hot as I got into Stanford-le-Hope – it had started to rain lightly at Fobbing so I’d had a chance to put my new coat on.  However, it’s been very warm all day and I’d been overheating for some time.  This decided me to call it a day at Stanford.  It was only two thirty, but I’d managed ten miles.  A good day.

It was quite fortuitous too – I got the train from Stanford to Benfleet back to the car and, as I was changing my boots in the car park, it started to chuck it down!