Day 58 - Saturday 29 June 2002 - Brighton Palace Pier to West Worthing

13 miles walked today

684.5 miles walked in total (average 11.8)

I started at Brighton Pier at eight thirty this morning - unfortunately it didn't open until nine o'clock so I couldn't have a wander.

The weather was glorious and, by the time I walked into Hove half an hour later, there were already people on the beach and in the sea.   Brighton always seems really relaxed to me, despite the number of people there, and even though it was Saturday, there were very few cars or people about, except a few joggers, dog walkers and keen sunbathers.

At Hove Lagoon, I stumbled across the Ocean Carnival, some sort of windsurfing mecca.  I then had to head onto Basin Road South down towards the lock gates across Shoreham harbour.  Things got surreal along here, as I had to walk past my old office where I'd spent two days a week for the best part of 2001!

Right on cue, I got a 'phone call from Andy and I had to describe the site to him.  He was a bit cross that I was walking as I'd felt a bit fluey all week and he'd ordered me to take a day off . I've been reading a lot of walk books lately though and have got re-inspired.   To be honest, I think about giving the walk up quite a lot, but I'm trying to prove a point now.   I start so many things that I never finish and this would be a chance to prove to myself that I can achieve something if I really want to.

From the lock gates, I was back on the main A259 to Shoreham town where I crossed the River Adur by footbridge to head along the beach.   I used to drive home this way from work and I was never too impressed with any of the houses en route  However, having walked along the back of them, I've totally changed my opinion.  They all have their own moorings on the Widewater Lagoon, a local nature reserve.  Superb!  It's been very quiet on this stretch, just the constant low drone of the 'planes coming out of Shoreham airport.

Past the lagoon, I was back on the prom to Worthing and lunch, which I took on the balcony of a very nice little tea room, from where I had brilliant views back over to Brighton and the Seven Sisters.

The bottom of my feet were quite sore at this time - it's been all tarmac and shingle this morning - and I think I may need better insoles for my boots  However, I had an emergency pair of socks in my bag, so I put those on over my other pair and I tried to carry on, albeit with a slight limp!

At West Worthing, I had to give up finally and go and find Milletts to get insoles, which turn out to have some rather marvellous shock absorbers in them!  My shins, calf muscles and soles of my feet were crying out for me to stop.   But I'm very pleased with thirteen miles - that'll push my average up a little bit.

Day 57 - Sunday 21 April 2002 - Newhaven Fort to Brighton Palace Pier

10 miles walked today

671.5 miles walked in total (average 11.78)

By coincidence, Katie and I started walking at twelve minutes to eleven again!

The day started off very hazy but soon warmed up and we walked in teeshirts for practically the whole day.  We started off by popping into the fort to ask directions out onto the footpath over the cliffs and we were soon on our way, passing the hang gliders and looking down at all the divers down on the beach.

Newhaven Heights is a new housing development of prefab bungalows on top of the cliffs.  If the houses - and I've lived in a prefab which was brilliant - hadn't been on top of one another, but had been set in their own fields, they'd have been great.  But, in their setting, they looked quite astoundingly ugly!

As we walked along the cliffs to Peacehaven, we marvelled at all the flowers growing along the cliff edge - namely, marigolds and wallflowers which stretched on for miles.  Again, we saw lots of people out - on the prom at the bottom of the cliff - and in their gardens and on their balconies.   We passed the Meridian at Peacehaven which was quite a milestone again.   It's marked in a memorial to George V and gives the distances to various places in the commonwealth and must once have been a fountain, although the water features seem to have disappeared.

From Peacehaven, we made our way along the cliffs - with a short detour onto the main A259 road - through Telscombe to Saltdean where we stopped for lunch.  We had to do a bit of decision making about whether to have lunch on the beach or on the cliff - the cliffs won.  But only because, if we'd walked down the steps to the beach, we'd have only had to walk back up again.  As it was, we made sure we were at the top of the next cliff, before we stopped to eat.   We knew that the wind had changed direction as the weather vane on the monument at the top suddenly swung round on its axis as we passed!

The view from our lunch stop was superb.  We could see any number of art deco buildings - the Saltdean Lido, the Ocean Hotel overlooking all of Brighton, and the tearooms on the prom, to name a few.  By this time, we were feeling quite hot and it wasn't until later that we discovered the extent of our new stripey suntans!

We spotted some quite wacky characters on the beach too.  We watched as two chaps, one of whom was done up in red teeshirt and shorts, and blue Crocodile Dundee hat, manoeuvred a bright red canoe down the A259, through the underpass and onto the beach.   That would have been enough exercise for me, never mind rowing the blinking thing as well!

We came down into Rottingdean after lunch and had a quick mooch around the shops and stopped on the front for some more people watching.  Katie pointed out a pretty little tearoom - The Old Cottage Tea Rooms - so we felt it only right that we stop for a beverage.  The garden was fantastic - crammed full of tables and benches - and the borders were full of fantastic, healthy looking shrubs and trees, not to mention bird houses, gnomes and animal ornaments.

We sussed out where the bus stop was in Rottingdean in case we couldn't be bothered to walk any further.  I think that, if I'd been on my own, I might have given up then, but Katie was eager to carry on and provided some much needed encouragement.

From Rottingdean, we were back on the cliffs for a while past St Dunstan's School for the Blind, Roedean School for Girls and Brighton Marina.

Just past the marina, we made our way down the path into Madeira Drive and past Volks Electric Railway towards the pier.  We then got caught up in a coach rally which was quite bizarre - dozens of coaches done up and gleaming and being judged - the trophy table was huge with trophies for best driver, best coach, best make of coach, etc.  The overall winner was Banstead Coaches, which made me laugh - I used to go to Sunday School in Banstead!   They won about a dozen trophies, I think.  We also spotted a Club Cantabrica coach - the company I used to be a holiday rep for.  I made sure I spat on that one as I walked past.  Only joking!

We had about two minutes to catch the bus back to Newhaven from opposite the pier - so we made a mad dash, running along the pavement with our backpacks knocking people out of the way.  We weren't too impressed when the driver saw us and drove off anyway.  Humph!  We only had to wait ten minutes for the next bus though back to Newhaven, and we walked through the marina again and down to the Hope Inn, for a beer to celebrate the weekend's walking.

It was an excellent weekend, but I'm sure Katie was sad that we'd missed the swingbridge opening twice, today only by ten minutes!

Day 56 - Saturday 20 April 2002 - Cuckmere Haven to Newhaven Fort

9 miles walked today

661.5 miles walked in total (average 11.81)

Katie and I arrived at the Golden Galleon at ten thirty this morning, to find banners up announcing a beer festival all day - hurrah!  We dashed into the pub and asked whether, if we promised to come back for a beer after our walking today, we could borrow their loos?  Suitably relieved, in more ways than one, we started to walk at twelve minutes to eleven!

This was Katie's first walking day ever apparently!   We're going to Portugal in three weeks' time on a rambling holiday so it was good to get a bit of practice in before we go.  All we need to sort out is the shopping bit now - rucksack, waterproofs, etc - it's a good job I've got two of everything!

The view from Cuckmere Haven back to the Seven Sisters was very misty - as we'd known it would be as we'd heard the foghorns from Newhaven as soon as we arrived at the country park.  However, as we walked over the next hill and down to Hope Gap, it began to clear a bit - the sun was very warm and soon burned the mist off.  We had a couple of stops up the next hill and removed various layers of clothing as we began to overheat. The walking was great - very springy turf which really helps to lessen the blows on the knees.

We had to walk through Seaford golf course, which was very well populated.  We assumed there was a tournament because of the number of people there - in fact, they were having to queue up to play the holes.  As we descended the hill down into Seaford, we were outraged by the number of people just sitting in their cars reading the papers, when they could have been sitting on any one of a hundred benches along the prom.

We took up our places on a bench to have our lunch and watched the world go by.  It was great to see so many people about.   After lunch, we were back on a track along the back of the beach - the Vanguard Way - which took us to the harbour entrance at Newhaven, over the railway bridge, through the industrial bits and past the station to the pedestrian/ car bridge into Newhaven itself.  Katie could barely contain her excitement, as a Southern Water engineer, about the water treatment works and I swear I caught a glint in her eye when she noticed the bridge was a swingbridge and would be opening later - sadly, an event which we missed!

From the bridge, we walked through the marina, watching all the fishermen in their boats.  Past the lifeboat station (which was actually a portacabin!), we stopped at Coral's Cabin Café for a cup of tea, when we heard an explosion, but just passed it off as background noise.  After a short break, we continued along the road down to the fort and the harbour entrance, but were caught up in a marine disaster, which explained the explosion we'd heard.  A gas canister had exploded on one of the smaller boats, which necessitated two fire engines, two police cars and a paramedic's arrival on the scene.  Katie and I pondered for a minute or two whether to ignore it and carry on to the fort or to go and satisfy our morbid curiosity - it was obvious what was going to win!  So we went into the marina to watch - it was the Marina Open Day anyway, so we could have passed off as visitors rather than weirdos!  Eventually the paramedics led a very badly shaken man along the jetty to the ambulance - the poor guy was wearing a teacloth on his head as his hair had been very badly singed and the skin was hanging off his hands.  I thought about recording the incident on film for the walk diary, but decided that even I'm not that sick.

Further round the bend towards the harbour entrance, we took a look at all the boats up for sale and in general winter storage.  One boat seemed to have been wrapped in clingfilm/ shrink wrap!  I suppose it keeps it protected from the elements.  We saw the Mayor too - what an exciting day!

From the fort, we walked back up through the marina and back to the bus stop for the bus back to Cuckmere Haven.  Once there, we popped into the Golden Galleon for a couple of ciders to celebrate the day - there were lots of people there, including some walkers who hadn't quite finished for the day, but who were having a pint anyway.  They're obviously more dedicated than I am - I think that, had I been having a pint in a pretty little pub garden with fantastic views over the Seven Sisters, I probably would have given up walking for the day.

The wildlife was fantastic - we saw horses, cows, sheep, a heron in flight, some swans, robins and goldfinches - all from the pub bench!   Excellent work!  And Katie's well and truly got her boots worn in - she spilled her cider over them!

Day 55 - Saturday 6 April 2002 - Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven

12 miles walked today

652.5 miles walked in total (average 11.86)

Today started off sunny, but very fresh and blustery.  I had a new walking partner today – Sue from work.  I was a bit concerned as I always feel responsible when anyone new walks with me – I want them to have a good day.  I knew that we had a tough day as we were walking the Seven Sisters and it would be hard going with the wind buffeting us.  Luckily, though, Sue isn’t local to East Sussex so didn’t realise that we had seven hills to climb and I didn’t feel inclined to tell her.  Ignorance sometimes is most definitely bliss!

Our first climb was one of 534 feet to Beachy Head – this caused much laughter and gasping for breath as the wind carried us up to the top, where we had to stop for a breather and to find a little sheltered spot to sit and compose ourselves!

We could see the 142 feet high red and white striped lighthouse at the foot of the cliffs and decided that it looked like a “proper” lighthouse, as opposed to the Belle Tout lighthouse at the top of the cliffs a mile away.  This is the structure that was moved back from the cliff edge – a tremendous feat of engineering that featured in “Tomorrow’s World” a couple of years ago.  The whole thing was filmed over twenty-four hours and then speeded up to be shown in a half hour slot on national television on the very day it was moved.

I’ve grinned a lot today and declared the scenery to be fantastic every five minutes or so – luckily, Sue shared my enthusiasm and wasn’t so cheesed off at my cheeriness that she didn’t want to push me over the cliff.  It’s been so sunny and there hasn’t been a cloud in the sky as we scaled the Sisters, named Went Hill, Baily’s Hill, Flat Hill, Brass Point, Rough Brow, Short Brow and Haven Brow.  I was a bit disappointed that they didn’t have “girly” names as they were sisters – something like the women’s names in Seven Brides for Seven Brothers would have been excellent!

We stopped at the Birling Gap Hotel for a coffee and a spot of postcard buying before heading down to the beach for an hour’s lunch stop.  How very civilised.

We carried on for three hours after lunch through the Seven Sisters Country Park and through the Cuckmere Valley.  Although tempted to stop at the Golden Galleon pub, we pushed on out to Cuckmere Haven itself and to a spot where we had a view back on the cliffs that we’d walked – what an amazing and rewarding sight!  After a quick photo shoot, we walked back to the pub for a beer and a cider to celebrate, before heading back to get the bus to Eastbourne pier, where we’d left the car.

An absolutely brilliant day.  And Sue was impressed enough to say she’ll come again!

Day 54 – Saturday 16 March 2002 - Bexhill to Eastbourne

10.5 miles walked today

640.5 miles walked in total (average 11.86)

Sam and I left Epsom at 8.00 am and were ready to walk from the De La Warr Pavilion at 9.45 am.  The sun was shining and it was dry, although the weather forecast hadn’t been good.

From Bexhill, we were on the prom to Cooden Beach, a place I always wanted to live in when I was at Hastings, because the houses were so enormous!  From the beach side, we got to see the back gardens of these houses, one of which had a full size tennis court.

There’s obviously been some erosion along this stretch of coast and we could see a lot of concrete making its way into the gardens to shore things up.  One plant which seemed to have taken over was Hottentot’s Fig, a succulent with bright pink flowers.  (We didn’t identify the name though until looking it up when we got back to Sam’s this evening.)

From the Cooden Beach Hotel, we took the sea road beside the golf course and railway line.  Sam waved at a guardsman on a train just as it pulled into Cooden Beach station, so we had to hide in the shadows of the hotel until the train moved on, just in case they thought we were flagging it down!

A bit further along the road, we soon left the beach to head inland slightly and we had to wait at a level crossing.  Further around the bends, we waited at another level crossing to cross the same line – the tracks ran in dead straight lines, while the road curved. This second crossing was manned because the gates are permanently closed and are only opened on request.

Sam appeared to have let the sea air get to her as we sat on the sea wall for yet another snack break – muffins (cooked by Sam), hot cross buns and sandwiches were consumed on a very regular basis to try and keep the weight of the rucksacks down!  She was telling me a long involved story about Auntie June being cousin Edward’s godmother, but, for some reason – perhaps the sea air had got to me too – I thought she was talking about Sheila.  As Sheila is only a couple of years older than Ed, I thought this sounded fairly implausible.  At which point, Sam declared that, in that case, Sheila would have been his “god toddler”.  Too much fresh air, methinks!

From Norman’s Bay, we were on roads – albeit quiet roads – through the village to Pevensey.  We’ve seen loads of daffodils and primroses today and it certainly felt very springlike, with the warm sun shining on us.  Layers of clothing have been removed and reinstated all day!

As we neared Pevensey Castle, the over riding smell was of garlic – more likely from the Castle Inn, than anything the Normans left behind in 1066!

The road became a main road into Eastbourne, although we passed a lot of caravan parks just opening up for the season and three Martello towers.

Sam’s feet began to blister as we walked into Eastbourne and we had to stop a couple of times for emergency sock and first aid treatment.  When you’re desperate to get somewhere, it never seems to get any nearer and we were a bit fed up until we got back on the sea wall behind the Sovereign Leisure Centre, from where we could clearly see the pier.  We decided to stop there for a cup of tea, before deciding whether we could carry on to Birling Gap.

However, as we approached the pier, the rain came down and it seemed an ideal opportunity to stop and go shopping instead!

Day 53 – Saturday 19 January 2002 - St Leonards on Sea to Bexhill

4 miles walked today

630 miles walked in total (average 11.88)

I didn’t realise, in all the years I lived at Hastings, that a footpath followed the beach all the way to Bexhill!  It’s been very cold and blustery and the sea’s been very choppy this morning, although the sun’s been very bright.  With perfect timing, however, the sun disappeared as I got to the De La Warr Pavilion for a cup of tea.

I’ve always liked Bexhill – it has a genteel and quiet character that Hastings never had – a bit like Eastbourne, but with fewer people.

In May 1902, Bexhill held the first motor race on British soil and every May Day the people of the town recreate this event along the sea front.  Lord De La Warr (the chap responsible for the Pavilion) built the road going up to Galley Hill – in fact, he even engineered the hill.  This was to help the race competitors get some speed up to complete the “flying kilometre”!

I read the theatre programme while having my pot of tea at the Pavilion and was quite impressed at how much “worthy” stuff they were showing, instead of your normal seaside fare.  I wasn’t too overawed by the art exhibition though – I only saw eight or ten pictures – I’m such a philistine!

I couldn’t sit out on the balcony for long as it was too cold, so I headed inside with all the OAPs having their tea.  As I left the Pavilion to carry on walking, the rain came down.  And, boy, did it come down.  Blinking weather!

Day 52 – Sunday 30 December 2001 - Fairlight Country Park to St Leonards on Sea

5.5 miles walked today

626 miles walked in total (average 12.03)

I didn’t get to walk yesterday, as, when I got up at seven, I discovered a layer of snow over everything outside!  Instead, I had a fairly unsuccessful shopping spree in Worthing.  The snow had cleared up by yesterday afternoon and, when I woke this morning, there’d been no new snowfalls, so I decided to risk it.

I was parked at the Fairlight Country Park at nine thirty and ready to walk.  I was somewhere between excitement at wanting to walk and trepidation about falling – there was still a lot of snow about, but it had turned to ice in places and I’m renowned for having very little balance in dry conditions, never mind glacial ones!  It’s been a very crisp morning and I really enjoyed it as I got my first glimpse of Hastings.

The steps down from the east cliff were quite treacherous so I slowed down somewhat to get down those and then the Tamarisk Steps down to the old net drying sheds.  I had a quick look at the high street in the old town before heading down George Street.  Unlike Rye, Hastings old town seems to be exactly as I remembered it, with the exception of the new Vodka Bar/ Internet Café!

I left George Street with rather more than I’d entered it – two pairs of trousers and a top!  What to do now?  Carry on walking or stop and go shopping instead?  I took the funicular lift inside the west cliff up to the café for a hot chocolate and some decision making.

When I left Hastings six years ago, I didn’t say goodbye to quite a few people, so always thought I’d have to walk through the town in disguise in case I was spotted.  Lots of memories have been awoken today, not all bad.  I know that many people would disagree with me – especially Mum and Dad – but I still think Hastings is a magical place.  It wasn’t always good, but it wasn’t always bad either.  I met some lovely people here and grew up a lot.  It will always be a bit special, even if I never come back again.  (Although I will come back eventually – Sam’s under strict instructions that I want my ashes scattered over Fairlight Country Park!)

I popped into the town to visit the new shopping centre that was being built when I left.  Everyone I knew feared it would be the end of all the other shops in Hastings as everyone would go to the new centre (called “Priory Meadow”) and the existing shops would fall into disuse.  However, I saw less boarded up shopfronts today than I did when I lived there.  It seems to be pretty thriving. 

It was on the pier that I saw the most changes – it’s fantastic.  All new decking and the most amazing shops now – very much like Brighton’s Lanes – with antique shops, perfumery shops, candle makers, jewellers, but none of them tacky – all very upmarket.  It was brilliant – I was really pleased.

From the pier, I walked along to St Leonards on Sea and passed my old flat in Warrior Square.  The square hasn’t changed at all except for one hotel (I forget the name) which has been demolished and there was some construction work going on behind the security fencing.  The last time I saw the square, there was a lot of Southern Water work going on and the gardens had all been dug up and the bandstand had disappeared.  However, it’s all been reinstated now, I’m pleased to say.

Because I’d spent so much time mooching and so little time walking, it was too late to reach Bexhill.  At least I’ve got Hastings out of my system.  I really haven’t been looking forward to that stretch of coast at all.  Still, we live and learn and I did quite a bit of both there all those years ago!  I’ve done a lot more since and have grown to have fond thoughts of Hastings, something which I’m afraid I might not have done if I was still living there.