Day 77 - Sunday 4 May 2003 - Swanage to Worth Matravers

 7 miles walked today

831 miles walked in total (10.79 average)

After breakfast, we left just after nine to drive to Sandbanks to catch the ferry to Shell Bay and then drove on to Swanage Youth Hostel to park the car.   At ten past ten, we left the hostel to walk down to the front for provisions for the day.  We got walking properly at half past ten and made our way along the slippery seaweed steps past the pier to Peveril Point, where we turned a sharp corner and climbed the first of many hills today to Durlston Country Park.

It wasn't long before the path fell into the sea so we headed out on road to get to the car park entrance to the country park and made our way along the wooded path to Durlston Head and the Great Globe.   This is a sphere of Portland stone, ten feet in diameter and weighing forty tonnes which has the world carved on it.   John Mowlem, the Swanage born founder of the construction company, placed it here in 1887.

From here, the path was open along the cliffs past Tilly Whim caves and Durlston lighthouse.  As we came round Anvil Point, the path levelled out and we could see over to St Aldhelms Head, our intended lunch stop destination.  It was very hot, so we stopped to sit down a few times and also to drink lots of water to keep us going.

We were on the lookout for Matt Ilott, a friend of Sam's who we bumped into in Swanage last night while waiting for the bus.   Matt's a climbing teacher and was leading a group of thirty American students.  We found him at Dancing Ledge and decided to stop for lunch there before climbing back up on to the cliffs.

Once back up on the top, we saw more caves and old quarry workings and the path meandered up and down for ages.   I was sulking at this point and wanted to give up, but Sam wouldn't let me.  So I refused to talk to her!

The path became indistinct at Winspit and we ended up walking up a track towards Worth Matravers, which we both knew was the wrong way.  However, I'd lost my sense of humour at this stage and was very tired.  My toes were hurting; it was very hot; I didn't have a hat; and I had a fleece wrapped around my middle, all of which went some way to explaining my general distress.  I began to seriously doubt my ability to continue with this walk and I lagged behind Sam feeling very sorry for myself.

As we walked through a field of cows - always guaranteed to make me go quicker - I overtook Sam who was taking pictures.  I headed into the village and spotted the tea rooms - again, always guaranteed to make me go quicker! - so signalled to Sam where I was, went and grabbed a table outside and promptly burst into tears!  A cream tea and a lime milkshake went some way to easing the discomfort, so we had a walk up to the church where I changed my boots for sandals and laid down in the graveyard while Sam went exploring.

We summoned a taxi back to the youth hostel in Swanage and got a bit lary when the warden told us our room was on the second floor and there was no lift!  Within five seconds, the room was a tip and we were in hysterics because Sam expected me to have the top bunk, to which I replied, "don't be ridiculous, I'm an old lady!"  Much mirth ensued and, when the warden knocked on our door, we assumed he'd come to tell us to keep the noise down!   However, it was merely to find out our packed lunch requirements for tomorrow!

We dashed off to the showers before the seventy-nine young girls who are staying at the hostel got back from their day out and headed down into Swanage for tea - scampi, burger and liqueur coffees at Beavers Restaurant.  Very nice indeed.

Faux pas of the day goes to Sam who said that my one sunburnt arm looked like I'd been driving with it out of the window.   How she thinks I drive with my left arm out of the passenger window, I'll never know!