Wednesday 13 April 2016

Day 46 – Sunday 2 September 2001 - Walmer Castle to Dover



9 miles walked today



567 miles walked in total (average 12.32)



After breakfast at the Rose and Crown in Elham, Vicky and I started walking at about ten o’clock.  We were on footpaths immediately alongside the beach and then up on to the cliffs at Kingsdown, where the white cliffs start.  I’ve never seen anyone climb a hill as fast as Vicky and I was soon put to shame by her striding ahead, leaving me lagging behind.



I had already reminded Vicky to look out for bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover, but the nearest we saw was the Bluebirds CafĂ© up by the Dover Patrol Memorial.  Just past the Memorial on top of the cliffs, the path turned into a lane which descended into St Margaret’s Bay, where the tide was crashing against the sea wall.  We climbed back up the lanes to a tea room which was covered in pictures of Noel Coward.  It was then that I remembered vaguely that I’d read in one of Sam’s books that he lived on this stretch of coast.  We’d practically walked past his house and had missed it.  Vicky and I decided that Sam had been very remiss in not reminding me to look out for the house.  My guide book had failed to mention it too, so Sam had failed in her duty to tell the authors also.



St Margaret’s Bay is the nearest point to France, being only twenty-one miles distant, and is traditionally the start/ finish point for cross Channel swimmers.  I had already ascertained how near we were to France though as my ‘phone had transferred to a French mobile ‘phone network!



A short distance along the cliffs we found the South Foreland lighthouse.  There were lots of people around and it was good to see so many people using the footpaths.  Coming into Dover, we stumbled on a group of people wearing badges inscribed with their name and UNE.  We spent a while trying to work out what UNE stood for, before I gave up and asked Jean – apparently they were all from the University of New England in Australia and were on a bit of a jaunt to catch the sights.



From the cliffs, the Port of Dover looked very small, but very well organised, with orderly queues being formed and lots of ships entering and leaving the harbour.  The path meandered vaguely into Dover and we were soon into the town centre trying to find the station.



It’s been a great weekend – we’ve hardly needed to use the roads at all and it’s good to be on proper footpaths.  The weather’s been good too, sunny on Saturday and mild today, although we needed our waterproofs for just an hour at the end of the day.



Vicky has said that she’s going to give walking a bit of a rest and will only consider coming again when I’ve got past Brighton and we’re back onto level surfaces again.  Unfortunately, I can feel a few hills coming on!

Sunday 10 April 2016

Day 45 – Saturday 1 September 2001 - Sandwich to Walmer Castle



8 miles walked today



558 miles walked in total (average 12.4)



Vicky and I started walking at twelve o’clock and, after a few hundred yards’ stretch through an estate and across a golf course, we decided to sit on the beach and eat our lunch!




The path followed a shingle bank beside two golf courses and Vicky and I had a good gawp at all the very smart houses en route.

We soon reached Deal, two thousand and fifty-six years and seven days exactly after Julius Caesar reached the town.  The sun had already worked its miracles and the delirium that ensued brought up such conversational gems as body piercing, tattoos, Roman roads and part time undercover pirates.

We liked Deal very much.  It was a well cared for, non touristy little town.  We had a sit down outside the King’s Head and watched the world go by for quite a while.  We could clearly see the pier, a very odd structure, exactly a thousand feet long.  It didn’t have all the metal and wooden beams underneath, but just two columns, one at each side of the pier, so that you could have an unobstructed view of the sea underneath.

We didn’t need to go too much further before we found Deal Castle, a Tudor rose shaped castle built by Henry VIII in 1540.  About a mile down the coast, we found another of Henry’s castles at Walmer, a very elegant looking castle covered in ivy and Virginia creeper, as opposed to the workmanlike ramparts of Deal Castle.  When it was built, the sea came right up to the walls, but now it’s separated from the Channel by a massive shingle bank, a road and a cycle path.

It was at Walmer that we gave up for the day before going off to find our B&B at Elham amongst the North Downs.